Nov 14
Arrived back in Taiwan from Japan and after a couple of train rides to
Hualien, was met by pelting rain. The weather was not supposed to improve much
for the next day which basically canceled my plans to visit Taroko Gorge. Also
the hotel could not find me a guide, but I was able to join a tour consisting
of a mother and daughter from Bejing going into the valley. What a joke that
was, unless you think going to watch a lake or two, stopping at a sugar factory
that is all gift shops or a dairy farm listed as a ranch are highlights of your
day. Of course all of these sights had tons of tour buses and I was told that
English speakers like culture, animals and nature, Chinese visitors like tingle
tangle, my quote.
After I learnt that the weather was going to improve, I booked
an extra night. Managed to get a driver for Taroko Gorge who spoke a little
English and was a dream to work with. All of this was arranged by Holland
house. I negotiated the price to TW$3000 ($100) which I felt was fair. The
mountains are beautiful, and the gorge in particular with the marble and
granite boulders matching the water. Lin, drove me everywhere but the amount of
tourists was overwhelming. I did manage to cross two separate suspension
bridges, which was quite scary, Lin kept on saying don’t look down, and I didn’t.
We drove, before arriving in Taroko, through a cemetery
which was fascinating. Each grave was a little house, some more elaborate than
others Not the kind of mausoleums we are used to, a bit more colorful and
individualistic. Some were obviously Christian, given the cross on top of the
entrance, others were Buddhist. We saw one very old grave, which was quite
neglected, but it had beautiful enamels and paintings, my inclination was to
stay and weed, but I didn’t.
We passed through a fishing village, so far there was no
fish, when we returned later in the day they were doing a brisk business. Did
not recognize most of the fish, prices were very high though. As we were
standing there a steady stream of fighter jets kept on flying over us. Under
normal circumstances I probably wouldn’t have reacted, but given the tense
situation with N.Korea, I was scared. We saw beautiful beaches and the main
Fish market. I was shown the various Municipal Buildings, and what struck me
once again, are the signs in English directing you. Why are the road directions
and front of the buildings in English? This is prevalent in Japan as well, as
here in Taiwan. These are not likely to be institutions visited by non-native speakers. Was very tired when we returned, the owners
invited me to share their dinner, so generous and kind. When I left the next
morning I was presented with a bag of Milk Nougat from the Ranch and delicious
Kumquat muffins.
Had deliberately left the last few days unplanned, since I
had the dream of hitting the beach. It didn’t quite work out that way, time
wise or otherwise so I settled on Tainan. Bought a high speed ticket from
Taipei, and an express from Hualien to Taipei. What I didn’t know is that the
High Speed Railway (HSR) is about 40 minutes from downtown Tainin. Was advised to take a free shuttle bus to the
end station and then a taxi I had booked a hotel in the Anpang section as that
sounded good.
What had been a fantastic trip so far was about to turn.
We arrive at this house that shows no sign of being a hotel nor any sign of
life. The taxi driver will not leave me and calls a number that’s on the door,
then tells me someone will come in 20 minutes. He drives off, and the neighbor
across the street invites me in, shows me the bathroom and gives me juice while
chattering away in Chinese. Eventually a man shows up obviously very flustered
and with poor English skills. We walk
in, I decide that there is no way I am staying there, the downstairs is dark
and dingy, my room has a marble staircase leading downstairs, but is roped off.
I ask are there other guests, the answer is negative. A woman who speaks
English comes on the phone and I tell her that this is unacceptable and I will
not stay there. Eventually I am taken to a building in a central location where
a really cute woman greets us. The driver, who was a friend of the owner takes
off and a young Chinese couple from Hawaii joins us. They act as interpreters,
and help show me to my room which is really miserable. The building is across
from the river, ask if there is a room with river view and yes there is. It is
an apartment building with gated front doors, and the new room is not much
better but it does have a view. At this point I will take anything, even a room
with a mattress on the floor which this is. Little did I know that my visit to
Tainan would be one of the major highlights of my trip.
Oct 17
One of the reasons I was so upset was that I had looked
forward to 3 consecutive nights in a decent place to round off my trip. What I
ended up with was 2 nights in this place and the 3rd unknown. Poppy
the owner, on my first night invited me and the young couple for dinner at a
hot pot restaurant nearby.
Already I am feeling better, she doesn’t speak much
English but is totally adorable and kind. Next day I take a taxi to the general
market, my plan was to start there and then hit some temples. The market is
huge and totally absorbing. Meat is mixed with fish and vegetables, clothing
and jewelry is competing with prepared foods and everywhere I turn am offered
tastes of something. One just feels the benevolence and kindness of the
vendors. It is now 88 degrees and no breeze I stop at an ice tea shop and run
into a woman from Singapore I had met earlier. Wey, that’s her name, is going to
a mall because it is too hot to walk around, I decide to join her since the
temples will be there the next day. She only takes buses, despite the fact that
taxis are so very cheap. We walk around the traffic circle and see a cobbler
that makes wooden sandals and other small shops. Fortunately, I have money left
on my Taiwan card and we take a bus to the Central Station that is close to
where the malls are. A mall here is a high rise building and there were several
next to each other.
Wey needs to get a watch strap and we stop at a watch
store, as one of the sales people is doing her make up. She has a great comb
for her lashes, a curler that is an USB and the skinniest mascara brush I have
ever seen. Her eyebrows look great so I ask what she uses, it turns out they
are tattooed. All of this
Is very enlightening especially since it seems that both
here and in Japan the young women are totally preoccupied with their looks. The
young Chinese woman from Hawaii brought an extra suitcase and was continuing to
Okinawa for the sole purpose to buy skincare products and make up. In this
particular building there is a Daiso, it’s a Japanese dollar store chain which
I have discovered. Everything is one price and the assortment is very diverse,
they have some interesting cooking implements which I purchase. We end up in
the basement where I have a curry donut and buy a chocolate croissant for my
breakfast. Time to head back and I find a bus that stops near where I am
staying. Now it’s time to consider dinner I had read about a place in Anpeng
that serves oyster and shrimp rolls. Taxi there, and question if this is
actually the place, very simple and almost empty. I was in the right place and
order one of each, at a cost of $3.30 my taxis cost more. They were very good and
tasty so I was satisfied.
The next day I am to meet Poppy at 10 am to move, she
drives me to a place and tries to call her friend, then she takes me to a restaurant and says she will
return. After a while this couple shows up who are friends of hers. They order
food, Milk Fish Soup, Oyster Soup, some kind of fried bread and Congee. Cyndie speaks excellent English, Filip her boss not so
much. After the morning snack we return to Filip’s guesthouse and am served
tea, Pomelos and more tea. By now I want to get on with my day, as pleasant as
this is, it is after all my last day. Eventually we leave for my lodgings which
is in the heart of Tainin, very nice, brand new but stairs to climb and a
mattress on the floor. My new landlady is so very kind and you just know that
she wants me to be happy. It is impossible to be grumpy when met with such sweetness.
Cyndie has been given the day off to take me around, we
see the two sights I had wanted to see. Confucius Temple and another Temple. We have fried ramen noodles with
seafood and in general walk around. Eventually we meet up with Poppy who has
promised to take me to the salt mines. It had been one of my goals for the
morning, to take the bus there. When we arrive we meet one of her friends,
Justin who take us out to see the sunset and a spectacular sight. Every evening
in November, Whiskered Terns return to
perch on the oyster beds for the night. It is a spectacular sight, hundreds and
hundreds of birds against the setting sun. Before it gets totally dark we walk
to see the salt fields, very different from other fields I have seen. Here the
salt is collected into pyramids, it was beautiful to see in the dusk. We end up
having dinner at Justin’s restaurant and what a feast it was the food just kept
on coming all very delicious.
On the drive back Poppy wants me to see this very special
temple, as chance would have it there is a large contingent from Taipei
celebrating. Some are costumed to portray gods I think they are on stilts,
firecrackers go off and it is all very spectacular unfortunately my camera
didn’t really capture the scenes. As we return to town we stop at a fruit shop where Poppy
orders tomatoes to be served with a sweet ginger sauce, there is also a large
fruit plate with a salt similar to what I had in Mexico. This is just to make
sure I am well fed, we then return to my lodgings where Filip joins us. More
food is procured. This time sweet sticky rice and some kind of sweet soup. I
don’t have a clue to what is being said for most of the conversations but
everybody is having a great time and laughing a lot. I am nominated as big
sister with a promise to return. All of this without any alcohol or stimulants,
it was just a lovely day and evening.
The next morning Natalia my landlady has bought breakfast
for me and also ordered lunch before I am picked up to go to the train. Since I
have several hours to kill, I walk out the door and they are dressing a God at
the temple next door for a procession to take place later that day. I am
invited to go to the back of the temple and see the Gods that are on display.
The gentleman who did so, offered to show me more temples and off we went. I
needed to get some more cash since I had spent most of what I had on dinner the
previous night. We go into 7-11 I get what I need, and Fang buys bananas, we go
on to the next temple which is also amazing. It is time to return since Filip
and Poppy are stopping by to say goodbye. Fang presents me with the bananas for
the train, and I am overwhelmed by the kindness and generosity of everyone I
have met in Taiwan and especially my new little brother and sisters. It has
been an amazing trip with so many impressions and experiences but what I take
with me going back, more than anything else is the kindness and consideration
of people everywhere.
