VIENTIANE
The Boat Landing was probably a novelty when it first opened up, and am sure that it still is in many ways. It is a lovely remote place, don't know how it was when the original owners and builders ran it.
Now it is as I wrote a place to chill out, or be picked up by a car for a trek.
Our flight was over an hour delayed getting into Vientiane, couldn't really see much as it was getting dark. Took a taxi to Mali Namphu guesthouse, on the recommendation of my friend Sue. The taxis are a fixed price from the airport $6 or $8 for a van.
The GH could offer me a single room for 1 night $22 which was fine, the next night I moved to a twin bedded room off the garden for $30.
The GH is very near to the main tourist drag and as I walked to an Internet Cafe, I see these buffet tables in the middle of the sidewalk. A new Cafe opened that day and anyone who walked by was invited to partake of the food and soft drinks being offered. There were quite an array of different hors d'oeuvres, some better than others. Quite the opening feast, which meant that I didn't need to have dinner that night. Internet here is very slow, but you can prepay 2 hours for a little less than $1 or pay 100 kip a minute which comes to about 75 cents an hour.
The front desk man, Phan, who checked me in wears many hats, he offered to take me on a guided tour the next day together with 2 Japanese gentlemen for $30. Since as a rule I avoid guides, from my less than wonderful experiences last year I was very hesitant to accept the offer. Now I am so glad that I relented, in the end, there is no way that I would have covered as much ground and seen as much on my own.
Phan's English is excellent and he is a very good guide, when he offered to take me to different markets the following day, his day off I didn't hesitate for a second.
We started out by going to Buddah Park, built by a religious fanatic in the late 50's. He apparently studied under a Hindu rishi in Vietnam, as well as being a priest and a monk. The place is absolutely fantastic and in many ways quite beautiful. There is a huge reclining Buddah and many, many other statues. The builder of the park was forced to leave Laos, and settled in the Thai town of Nong Khai where he built another park. We then went to see the Friendship bridge that connect Thailand to Lao. Stopped at the convention center, where a trade show was being set up, bought some drinks at the super market inside the center. Then came time for the real meaty stuff, I think we covered every temple in town. Phan really wanted us to see the Lao Nationa Museum but we were all sight-seeinged out.
Phan as out guide was called took us to a Lao restaurant where we had a delcious lunch of fresh and fried springrolls, as well as rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, mint, noodles and grilled pork, all of this was washed down with Beer Lao. Lunch for the 4 of us came to $18 including many beers and a large bottle of water.
When we returned to the Guesthouse a large stage was being erected on the street with a sign “Luxe Grand Opening” there was this tiny little shop that was opening with such an extravaganza. After having rested for awhile, before joining the festivities, which I had been invited to partake in. I stood on the street and marveled at how the whole thing had been put together. The guests arrived carrying very elaborate flower baskets, hostess dutifully was photographed with each guest. The women for the most part were very dressed up. The show started with two women singing and dancing to a record, then a mistress of ceremonies and someone else came onstage and never stopped talking. The ribbon cutting ceremony took place while they were still gabbing on. Then came the highlight THE FASHION SHOW. Most of the things seemed to be made for Lolitas, thigh high stockings with shorts and ridiculously high heels, or long flowing night gowns with huge floppy strawhats. I am sure that it is very fashionable in Tokyo or Vientiane.
After a a couple of tea sandwiches decided it was time for dinner, this time I thought I wanted something Western to eat, and walked into a very busy outdoor restaurant, unfortunately didn't take the name down, it is past the Scandinavian Bakery close to Green Discovery. There didn't seem to be any tables available so I sat at the bar. Within two minutes a young German girl asked if I wanted to join her. Had one of the best Chicken Laab ever, nothing else appealed to me. Dagmar and I ended up having a delightful evening and she happily joined me in the following days schedule.
I had spent most of Saturday trying to get through to Lao airlines to change my ticket to return to Bangkok Sunday afternoon, was never able to get through. Sunday morning Phan drove me to the airport, where I was reassured that they “always” had no shows. After having spent most of the day visiting various markets including the Morning Market, which is a shopping mall, as well as the National Museum, and killing a few hours sitting by the Mekong drinking beer went out to the airport, and of course everybody had shown up for the flight.
Checked into the Lao Paris hotel which is quite lovely with a nice room for $25 and being picked up at 6 am for a confirmed flight.
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Luang Namtha and Muang Sin
It is so interesting how things happen in an instant. I was supposed to meet up with this couple to go for dinner at the Boat Landing. They were nowhere to be found, decided to go by myself and was unable to get a Tuk Tuk. It is too far out of town. Finally returned to Zuela , and asked for a good Lao restaurant. They sent me to Panda, where I ended up having a fantastic evening.
It was completely deserted when I arrived, looked at the menu and could not see anything that was not Western, finally I asked, and the owner/chef pointed to 3 dishes with coconut. I ordered the coconut fish and was already regretting my decision to stay, so sure that whatever I would get would be a watered down version, since the entire menu was totally non-Lao. Instead I was served one of the most delicious versions ever. While I am eating my fish, a group of five arrive and sit at the table behind me. After a while I hear guitar playing, I half turn and the two older men are playing guitars and I presume singing folk songs. The older of the two speaks very good English and points out this young, quite made up woman as his wife. The young man across the table is his son from his old wife, whom he divorced to marry this young girl, they now have 3 children.
Trophy wives are obviously not alien in this part of the world either. She is younger than the son, who is there with his fiancee. After awhile and many Lao Beers later a Country Western CD is produced and everybody gets up to dance, what started out one way ended totally unexpected. It was a fun evening, and everyone who knows me know how I love to dance.
Check out of Zuela and catch the mini bus to Muang Sing the journey is mountainous through dense forests. Unfortunately large tracts have been denuded by loggers, though there are signs of reforestation taking place. I arrive in Muang Sin after 1 ½ hours, and am very disappointed by what I see. In my guide book it is described as a supremely picturesque village, I suppose guide book writers can take poetic license. There is nothing particularly attractive about this village. The guest house I check into is lovely and the room as luxurious and as attractive as the Apsara $12 a night. Now I enquire about treks, I know that there are some one day easy walking and also a one day with Tuk Tuk. However since I am alone the price is double, I decide that I'm here so might as well go for it. I don't have enough cash and there is NO ATM, what to do? When in doubt go and eat, which is exactly what I do at Taileu Guesthous which is the only place in town, and one of the few in the country that serve indigenous northern cuisine. This according to my not very reliable guide book. Finally I got to taste fresh spring rolls that were delicious. After lunch I walk around trying to see if I have some options here, since I am not in love with the place, and don't have enough cash for a trek, decide to go back to Luang Nam Tha in the morning. Will check out the Boat Landing and stay there if they have rooms.
Apart from Luang Prabang and Luang Nam Tha I have probably stayed in the most upscale places available. My mode of travel, apart from hiring private transportation, is what has been available. Perhaps not what I would have selected if given a choice beforehand, but I am very glad to have experienced it. So how do I like it so far? It is a beautiful country, but I don't think it is a place to travel on your own unless you are a trekker and /or a backpacker. As much as I love nature I much prefer places where I can see things and interact with people. To me Laos is much more about discovering nature, and less about the places. The people are very nice, and pleasant if a little reserved. Except of course in the markets, where I find the women very outgoing and anxious to share, this is very much the case in most markets though. Maybe it takes a certain personality to be a market vendor, and it meshes with my own?
After another sleepless night I leave for the bus stop, get a lift with a local bus and arrive at 7 am for a 8 am bus. There are already bags claiming most of the seats, I put my bag on one of the unclaimed ones and head for the market and breakfast. The market is hopping and true to my information there are several women from the mountain tribes both selling and purchasing, the head gears are amazing on some of them, and the embroideries most intricate.This is the closes I will get and it is OK, had fantasies of exploring the villages but had selective inattention in my prior resarch. Breakfast is Pho and back to the bus and Luang Nam Tha.
First order of business, LaoAirlines, there is a flight the next day which I book, since my tickets are Discover Pass I can change flights without penalties. I check into the Boat Landing which is very lovely with beautifully landscaped gardens full of butterflies. The rooms are indivual cottages with porches overlooking the Nam Tha river. Since this is an ecological place the water is solar heated, which means cold showers. My room rate is $35 including a scrumptious breakfast The people are very nice, the young man who shows me my room asks “Do you have my husband?” I can honestly say “No”.
It is very far from town just by the airport, a lovely place to chill out if you need that, or as a base for treks. The food is good, the Chicken Laab excellent, Morning Glory Salad has a sweet mustard mayonnaise dressing,not great, Stir Fried Pork is good, not outstanding. Am fortunate in that I share my meal with two young men from California and end up having a very nice evening. Have a great nights rest and wake up to a pleasantly cool morning.
Am looking forward to my reactions to Vientiane. Arrived tonight and what little I have seen I like.
It was completely deserted when I arrived, looked at the menu and could not see anything that was not Western, finally I asked, and the owner/chef pointed to 3 dishes with coconut. I ordered the coconut fish and was already regretting my decision to stay, so sure that whatever I would get would be a watered down version, since the entire menu was totally non-Lao. Instead I was served one of the most delicious versions ever. While I am eating my fish, a group of five arrive and sit at the table behind me. After a while I hear guitar playing, I half turn and the two older men are playing guitars and I presume singing folk songs. The older of the two speaks very good English and points out this young, quite made up woman as his wife. The young man across the table is his son from his old wife, whom he divorced to marry this young girl, they now have 3 children.
Trophy wives are obviously not alien in this part of the world either. She is younger than the son, who is there with his fiancee. After awhile and many Lao Beers later a Country Western CD is produced and everybody gets up to dance, what started out one way ended totally unexpected. It was a fun evening, and everyone who knows me know how I love to dance.
Check out of Zuela and catch the mini bus to Muang Sing the journey is mountainous through dense forests. Unfortunately large tracts have been denuded by loggers, though there are signs of reforestation taking place. I arrive in Muang Sin after 1 ½ hours, and am very disappointed by what I see. In my guide book it is described as a supremely picturesque village, I suppose guide book writers can take poetic license. There is nothing particularly attractive about this village. The guest house I check into is lovely and the room as luxurious and as attractive as the Apsara $12 a night. Now I enquire about treks, I know that there are some one day easy walking and also a one day with Tuk Tuk. However since I am alone the price is double, I decide that I'm here so might as well go for it. I don't have enough cash and there is NO ATM, what to do? When in doubt go and eat, which is exactly what I do at Taileu Guesthous which is the only place in town, and one of the few in the country that serve indigenous northern cuisine. This according to my not very reliable guide book. Finally I got to taste fresh spring rolls that were delicious. After lunch I walk around trying to see if I have some options here, since I am not in love with the place, and don't have enough cash for a trek, decide to go back to Luang Nam Tha in the morning. Will check out the Boat Landing and stay there if they have rooms.
Apart from Luang Prabang and Luang Nam Tha I have probably stayed in the most upscale places available. My mode of travel, apart from hiring private transportation, is what has been available. Perhaps not what I would have selected if given a choice beforehand, but I am very glad to have experienced it. So how do I like it so far? It is a beautiful country, but I don't think it is a place to travel on your own unless you are a trekker and /or a backpacker. As much as I love nature I much prefer places where I can see things and interact with people. To me Laos is much more about discovering nature, and less about the places. The people are very nice, and pleasant if a little reserved. Except of course in the markets, where I find the women very outgoing and anxious to share, this is very much the case in most markets though. Maybe it takes a certain personality to be a market vendor, and it meshes with my own?
After another sleepless night I leave for the bus stop, get a lift with a local bus and arrive at 7 am for a 8 am bus. There are already bags claiming most of the seats, I put my bag on one of the unclaimed ones and head for the market and breakfast. The market is hopping and true to my information there are several women from the mountain tribes both selling and purchasing, the head gears are amazing on some of them, and the embroideries most intricate.This is the closes I will get and it is OK, had fantasies of exploring the villages but had selective inattention in my prior resarch. Breakfast is Pho and back to the bus and Luang Nam Tha.
First order of business, LaoAirlines, there is a flight the next day which I book, since my tickets are Discover Pass I can change flights without penalties. I check into the Boat Landing which is very lovely with beautifully landscaped gardens full of butterflies. The rooms are indivual cottages with porches overlooking the Nam Tha river. Since this is an ecological place the water is solar heated, which means cold showers. My room rate is $35 including a scrumptious breakfast The people are very nice, the young man who shows me my room asks “Do you have my husband?” I can honestly say “No”.
It is very far from town just by the airport, a lovely place to chill out if you need that, or as a base for treks. The food is good, the Chicken Laab excellent, Morning Glory Salad has a sweet mustard mayonnaise dressing,not great, Stir Fried Pork is good, not outstanding. Am fortunate in that I share my meal with two young men from California and end up having a very nice evening. Have a great nights rest and wake up to a pleasantly cool morning.
Am looking forward to my reactions to Vientiane. Arrived tonight and what little I have seen I like.
Going up the Nam Ou
October 19
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.
On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.
As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.
On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.
After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.
By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.
One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.
At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.
We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.
On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.
As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.
On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.
After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.
By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.
One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.
At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.
We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.
Luang Prabang
Having spent a very wet night in Bangkok, wet in the sense that the skies opened up, I never expected the Bangkok Air flight to depart on time for Luang Prabang, L.P. from now on. Well it did, 1 hour 40 minutes later, including lunch and 2 glasses of wine we landed.
Coming in the country is so green and verdant, am itching to explore further. After having obtained my visa, Sweden is $4 cheaper than the USA,.my driver met me. Having decided to splurge I am staying at the Apsara a boutique hotel $70 US/night. The hotel is lovely, location perfect, room is gorgeous with a king size bed, huge bathroom and very thick and soft towels. I feel it may have been a mistake, the other guests are couples, politely say good morning at breakfast, but there is no interaction at all. However I may live to eat those words as my trip through Laos progresses with slow boats and guest houses.
L.P. is a complete shock, I have read numerous descriptions, and nothing prepares me for this small town feeling and look…..am not quite sure if there is anything else like this anywhere else. There are tourists, but not an overwhelming amount, the buildings are low, none above 3 stories, painted mainly white. Most of the signs for restaurants and guest houses are on wooden highly varnished plaques.
The police station is a tiny building in the middle of Sinavangvon Road a.k.a. Main Street. This I walk up and down a few times trying to locate an ATM, the maximum you can withdraw is 70.000 kip (approx $80US) with a service charge of 20.000kip $2.40. Since I left all those crisp dollar bills in Bangkok, to use in Myanmar will have to deal with this in some fashion. Walk the down to the night market, there is not much of interest, I buy a couple of shirts, which I had planned to, and go for dinner.
Dinner was at Tamnak Lao, ordered a pork Laab, sticky rice and a Lao Lao which I thought was the local beer. It is not, it is the local moonshine, it reminds me of cheap tequila. Dinner was fair, I felt that there was too much fish sauce in the Laab, but that may be the way the dish should be. Start a conversation with Mike from England via Hawaii, for the last 40 years, he took early retirement, before the company went belly up and is fulfilling his dream of traveling SEA while the wife stays at home teaching. He was a really interesting character, and I enjoyed our conversation. By now it is 10 pm and bedtime, early rising to partake in the alms procession tomorrow.
Wake up 5 am and get up, don’t want to miss a thing here. Am out on the still fairly dark street by 5.30 and it is an amazing sight. There are mats on the sidewalk with baskets full of sticky rice, on top of each basket is a sash. All of a sudden van loads of people arrive they know exactly where to go. I happen to be standing near a spot where Thai tourists have staked their claim, they invite me to join them and before I know it I have a sash too, expertly put on by someone, who equally expertly reclaims it at the end. I have bought some banana leaves filled with sticky rice. Around 6,20 or so hundreds of monks pass by, the first four get my rice, my neighbor kindly offers to share her basket and we take little pinches of sticky rice to put into their alms bowls. The Thais also put in money and flowers, as do others. There are people were eating it.little children walking on the side with baskets, where the flowers are put. Others have large plastic bags or baskets where the excess rice goes. The amount of rice given is staggering, there are obviously organized tours that partake in this ritual. The tour guides have 4-5 cameras hanging around their necks while the participants of the group give merit, and they take pictures of the process.
I am very puzzled by the amount of rice not kept by the monks, and ask when I get back for breakfast at the hotel. The answer which makes perfect sense is that the rice collected goes to feed many hungry families, only wish I could believe it. One woman whom I asked, said it went to feed animals. All I know is that there was so much sticky rice collected and this is a daily ritual. I was also told that by the fact I had a sash put on I had given merit. Did I feel it was a solemn procession, yes the monks were solemn, but the circus before with all the women vendors and the tour guides taking pictures it seemed more of a commercial enterprise than anything else. The thought that crossed my mind, while this was going on was that the rice had passed through my hands, the monks hands and possibly other hands as well and yet people were eating it in the end, I was glad that there were no plastic gloves in sight.
Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great. Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 year old grandmoither who lives in Las Vegas has returned for a few months and these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who would have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.
The first afternoon after I had arrived in L.P. I checked out a few cooking schools. None which sounded too appealing. I had run into Joy at the market as he was taking students around, had also read about the Tamarind classes. It really was a no brainer, we met at the Tamarind restaurant all in all there were 9 of us. First we went to the Phoisy market where Joy, that was his name, explained different ingredients as well as showing us deifferent meats including dried rodent.
After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.
On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.
As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.
Coming in the country is so green and verdant, am itching to explore further. After having obtained my visa, Sweden is $4 cheaper than the USA,.my driver met me. Having decided to splurge I am staying at the Apsara a boutique hotel $70 US/night. The hotel is lovely, location perfect, room is gorgeous with a king size bed, huge bathroom and very thick and soft towels. I feel it may have been a mistake, the other guests are couples, politely say good morning at breakfast, but there is no interaction at all. However I may live to eat those words as my trip through Laos progresses with slow boats and guest houses.
L.P. is a complete shock, I have read numerous descriptions, and nothing prepares me for this small town feeling and look…..am not quite sure if there is anything else like this anywhere else. There are tourists, but not an overwhelming amount, the buildings are low, none above 3 stories, painted mainly white. Most of the signs for restaurants and guest houses are on wooden highly varnished plaques.
The police station is a tiny building in the middle of Sinavangvon Road a.k.a. Main Street. This I walk up and down a few times trying to locate an ATM, the maximum you can withdraw is 70.000 kip (approx $80US) with a service charge of 20.000kip $2.40. Since I left all those crisp dollar bills in Bangkok, to use in Myanmar will have to deal with this in some fashion. Walk the down to the night market, there is not much of interest, I buy a couple of shirts, which I had planned to, and go for dinner.
Dinner was at Tamnak Lao, ordered a pork Laab, sticky rice and a Lao Lao which I thought was the local beer. It is not, it is the local moonshine, it reminds me of cheap tequila. Dinner was fair, I felt that there was too much fish sauce in the Laab, but that may be the way the dish should be. Start a conversation with Mike from England via Hawaii, for the last 40 years, he took early retirement, before the company went belly up and is fulfilling his dream of traveling SEA while the wife stays at home teaching. He was a really interesting character, and I enjoyed our conversation. By now it is 10 pm and bedtime, early rising to partake in the alms procession tomorrow.
Wake up 5 am and get up, don’t want to miss a thing here. Am out on the still fairly dark street by 5.30 and it is an amazing sight. There are mats on the sidewalk with baskets full of sticky rice, on top of each basket is a sash. All of a sudden van loads of people arrive they know exactly where to go. I happen to be standing near a spot where Thai tourists have staked their claim, they invite me to join them and before I know it I have a sash too, expertly put on by someone, who equally expertly reclaims it at the end. I have bought some banana leaves filled with sticky rice. Around 6,20 or so hundreds of monks pass by, the first four get my rice, my neighbor kindly offers to share her basket and we take little pinches of sticky rice to put into their alms bowls. The Thais also put in money and flowers, as do others. There are people were eating it.little children walking on the side with baskets, where the flowers are put. Others have large plastic bags or baskets where the excess rice goes. The amount of rice given is staggering, there are obviously organized tours that partake in this ritual. The tour guides have 4-5 cameras hanging around their necks while the participants of the group give merit, and they take pictures of the process.
I am very puzzled by the amount of rice not kept by the monks, and ask when I get back for breakfast at the hotel. The answer which makes perfect sense is that the rice collected goes to feed many hungry families, only wish I could believe it. One woman whom I asked, said it went to feed animals. All I know is that there was so much sticky rice collected and this is a daily ritual. I was also told that by the fact I had a sash put on I had given merit. Did I feel it was a solemn procession, yes the monks were solemn, but the circus before with all the women vendors and the tour guides taking pictures it seemed more of a commercial enterprise than anything else. The thought that crossed my mind, while this was going on was that the rice had passed through my hands, the monks hands and possibly other hands as well and yet people were eating it in the end, I was glad that there were no plastic gloves in sight.
Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great. Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 year old grandmoither who lives in Las Vegas has returned for a few months and these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who would have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.
The first afternoon after I had arrived in L.P. I checked out a few cooking schools. None which sounded too appealing. I had run into Joy at the market as he was taking students around, had also read about the Tamarind classes. It really was a no brainer, we met at the Tamarind restaurant all in all there were 9 of us. First we went to the Phoisy market where Joy, that was his name, explained different ingredients as well as showing us deifferent meats including dried rodent.
After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.
On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.
As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.
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