Japan Oct 19
Arrived quite late on Jetair from Taipei to Osaka. Didn’t
realize that Japan is an hour ahead had booked a capsule hotel, which is
something I have read about and wanted to try, it is a very Japanese concept.
The subway stations are enormous and woe if you use the wrong exit, which I
did. It took me a little while to find the hotel which is smack in the middle
of Dotonbori, Osaka’s version of Times Square.
Reception is on the fifth floor, which is also the women’s
floor. I check in and receive a key to my locker which has the same number as
my pod. A bottle of water, some apple jelly and a choice of a gift. I selected
an item for sore feet. After check in
you remove your shoes and take a pair of slippers, this is a locked
cubby. The locker key unlocks the door to the locker room and pod section.
There is space for your suitcase with another lock provided. In my locker there
is a bag with pajamas, towels and toothbrush. I put my hand luggage in and go
to check out the rest. If you can imagine a wide corridor with black curtains
half way down openings two high, on the unoccupied pods. I am gratefully in a
lower one. All the pods have a TV, USB outlets, alarm clock and climate
control. There is a pillow and a comforter on the mattress which is probably
closer to a double. The ceiling is high enough that I can sit comfortably and
type this.
The bathroom which consist of these miraculous Toto toilets
that does everything except dress you. Showers and more lotions and hair
preparations than you can imagine for the women to use. There is also a
separate room to sit and apply make up. All very impressive even if I would not
want to make a habit of staying in Pod Hotels.
Am very tired and go out for a bite to eat at a conveyor
belt sushi restaurant. Some of it very good some not so great but the bill was
$13 not much point in complaining about that. Time to go to bed and I ended up
having the best uninterrupted sleep so far on this trip.
October 20
People make bucket lists, I never really have, except I
wanted to go to the Osaka Aquarium, see the castle and sleep in a capsule
hotel. Managed to do all three here, I bought a pass that gave me free entry to
the aquarium as well as unlimited subway and bus rides for the day. The
Aquarium is totally amazing with tanks from all the major oceans. One starts on
the top floor and walk down, the visibility is extraordinary because it is
acrylic instead of glass all the fish are very clearly visible. The main tank
can be seen on all floors, and one sees which fish live on each level of the
ocean. It is one of the largest aquariums in the world with 29.000 animals and
470 species. It was truly an exhilarating experience being so close to the fish
as well as penguins. Had no idea that there were so many kinds of jelly fish in
the world, did not find out though what their functions is.
Then it was off to Osaka Castle which I decided to see from
the outside, paid my entrance fee to Nishinomaru garden which was not much to
see except a large lawn, but it did give me some wonderful photos of the
castle. I did try to fit in one more sight before it was time to call it a day
but it was just too far. Clocked in almost 5 miles but I am sure that at least
2 miles were purely walking the subway stations. The distances are enormous the
stations even more so and you just walk and walk to reach the exit.
It so happened that my neighbor across from my pod is from
Taiwan, more exact Hualien which is where I am going on my return to Taiwan. We
agreed to Facebook, what on earth did we ever do before internet, social media
and smart phones? She is it turns out very active, but it is all in Chinese and
Google is not a good translator.
Leave for Kyoto tomorrow morning.
Oct 21
Kyoto
They say you should be careful what you wish for. I was
longing for some down time after some rather intense walking in Osaka. Typhoon
is hitting Kyoto and the parade I was looking forward to tomorrow has been
cancelled. It is raining cats and dogs and not pleasant to go out. This was one
of the places where I had very carefully planned what to do each day and don’t
really have a backup plan. Will figure it out by the time tomorrow comes.
Rain and more rain. The parade was cancelled, went to a
shrine which was supposed to have a handicraft market still functioning despite
the rain. Well it wasn’t happening, instead I got to see a bridal couple in
very traditional costumes. The headdress alone was spectacular, a really
beautiful couple. I am wet and cold and go to the café by the entrance for some
tea and soba noodles. While I am sitting there in walks an American woman with
her Japanese son. It turns out that she has lived here for 40 years and teaches
English at the University. Before I know it she has invited me back to their
apartment and to go grocery shopping with them. It sounded more interesting than
the piano concert I had planned on attending, in hindsight am not so sure.
Had been told that the typhoon was about to hit at 7 pm
that night so I made sure to return to my BnB in plenty of time. It is a very
lovely place somewhere in between a hostel and a BnB. The owner had arranged
for calligraphy lessons and a tea making ceremony to keep us amused. We could
hear the rain pelting down but that was all. I heard that the noise from the
wind had been bad, fortunately escaped it all.
The next day planned to go to Hikone to see the castle
except the trains were not running sat for over an hour on a train that wasn’t
moving. Went to plan B or was it C and went to Arashiyama there was a temple
garden I missed last year and it has gnawed on me ever since. Also had a reservation
at Tempura Matsu at 5.30. for my 10 or was it 11 course meal? It was just as
sensational as everything I had read and heard about it. The Chilled sake came
in a hollowed out bamboo stem. Each course was more appealing than the next and
best of all the atmosphere was very relaxed and friendly. The restaurant is a
family affair, the parents and sister were all working and being very friendly.
What a lovely ending to a somewhat chaotic day.
Finally there was sunshine and I got to Hikone, and
despite a map and instructions I managed to get lost on my way to the castle.
This was most fortuitous because I passed by a kitchenware/hardware store that
had wooden bento boxes displayed. I remembered the request to bring back a
Bonito shaver for a friend, after many explanations they produced the item. The
goodbyes were lengthy and after taking the obligatory photos I was gifted a
keychain with a bell. As I continued on the same street I passed a private home
that was a combination of old and what resembled a clapboard extension You could
sense that behind the fence was a Japanese garden. The owners were parking
their car, I asked about the extension and was invited in to see the garden. It
was magnificent, on a level with any temple garden. The garden and house were 90
years old the extension was built in 1932.
What a lovely beginning to my day. Finally made it to the
castle which was high up on a hill, there were steps made of stones and more
stones and when I finally thought I had arrived the were more steps. It made
the Great Wall of China look like child’s play and I thought that was hard to
walk with all the uneven stones. The
worst part was seeing elderly Japanese running up those steps as I labored very
hard. The castle is small and very lovely it is one of the few original ones
that have survived fires and earthquakes. Left with aching legs and feet but my
back is good.
Kyoto continued
Another day of sunshine and the tourist gods seem to still
be with me. Had wanted to see the Katsura Imperial Palace, and somehow been
misinformed that it did not require reservations. It does, and it was fully
booked, but if you arrive at 11 am there are a few same day tickets available.
Took a train and a bus using my ICOCA card. This is a prepaid charge card that
can be used for transportation and in stores all over Japan. The palace is
located outside the local bus company’s rid, so my day pass was not valid.
Arrive at 11 am sharp and get a pass for the 3.30 pm tour.
Decide to spend the time seeing the Silver Pavilion which required
another long walk to get to. What a beautiful sight, it was originally built in
the 1480’s for the shogun and then converted to a Zen temple. The grounds are
beautiful and there is a walk up the mountain which looked very appealing but
my legs were still protesting yesterday’s outing. This also precluded walking
the Philosophers path which I had wanted to do.
Back to the Imperial Palace, again magnificent gardens and
an instructive audio guide. Towards the end of the tour I met a Japanese girl
who lives in L.A. and we decided to head back to Kyoto together. She wanted to
see a goldfish exhibit at Ninja-ji castle, I had no interest. Then she shows me
the flyer it is Artaquarium opening that day. I had read about this rather
bizarre pop art exhibit. Over 5000 goldfish are displayed in different kinds of
aquariums which are lit up in various neon lights. Agreed that this could be
fun, we arrive at the castle but the tickets are not available at the venue,
you have to go to a convenience store.
I see there is a press gathering and as a lark I say, I
write a blog does that qualify and hand my business card to the person in
charge and then I say New York. Well, we get two press passes and get to
partake of the inauguration which was quite spectacular. We are sitting by the
mayor of Kyoto and other dignitaries, listening to speeches, the only one I
understood was the Italian ambassador’s. After the ribbon cutting ceremony
which was attended by all the bigwigs in white gloves and ribboned scissors
there was a Geisha performance. The Geisha and a Maiko, a geisha in training,
perform several dances accompanied by a woman playing a stringed instrument and
singing. What a treat this was before we enter the actual exhibit space. There
are lit tanks in all colours, shapes and sizes spread out over a quite large
area and there is a free sake bar. The evening has gotten quite cool the warm
sake mixed with dashi tasted delicious, of course we had to have several
glasses to warm up. After having chatted with Hidetodo Kimura the creator and
some of his friends we left. Hunger has set in a serious way. We end up at an
Izekaya, a place to eat small dishes and drink. There is an older man well into
his cups but very jolly who insists on pouring beer for us. Then a lively discussion
takes place about the Yankees loss and the Dodgers. The owner produces a paper
to show me pictures, of course I am not understanding the finer points of the
conversation but I got the gist. Baseball is serious business in Japan. Time to
head home and get ready for tomorrow and Naoshima.
October 26
Naoshima
On my way from Kyoto stopped at Okayama to see the famous
Korakuen garden, considered to be one of the 3 great gardens of Japan. Left my
luggage at the station, where I also managed to have my first vending machine
ticket for Ramen. Am not sure how the garden earned that distinction unless I
didn’t really appreciate it. The distinction may come from the fact that it was
established in 1684 it seemed to consist mainly of lawns with some trees in the
periphery, perhaps I missed the important parts.
On to catch the train to Uno where I was to get the ferry
for Honmura on the eastern part of Naoshima. It said that my guesthouse was just over 1km from the
harbor. What was not mentioned were the hills, fortunately, I managed to get a lift with another couple
whose landlord picked them up. My accommodation was an entire apartment with
kitchen and washing machine for approx. $60 per night. What I love about Japan amongst other things are the
wonderful comforters, Episode 1 did not disappoint.
Next morning brilliant sunshine and it was time to hit
the museums. There ae 3 museums on the island that can be reached by free
shuttle bus. The regular bus drops you off where the shuttle picks up. It all
seems great until you realize that the buses only run sporadically. This became
even more apparent after the night show of James Turell’s “Open sky” which ends
at 6 pm, my taxi cost $16.
I started at Benesse house which was I thought had very
interesting art. What stands out in particular was an installation of flags
that were ant farms and 3 wooden figures saying chatter, chatter continuously.
There was nude by one of my favorite artists Yves Klein and so much more. Then
I went on to Lee Ufan museum who is a Korean artist that left me cold and
finally Chichu art museum that exhibits only 3 artists. Monet, James Turell and
Walter de Maria. The museum is designed by Ando Tadao and mainly underground.
It was a wonderful experience.
Had heard about the “Open Sky” which only takes place on
weekends, I managed to get a reservation for that Saturday from NYC, when I
arrived I asked if there were any cancellations for that night, since rain was
predicted for Saturday. Yes they had a ticket which I grabbed immediately. It
is now 2.30 and I have done the museums and return to the ticket office and bus
station. There are no buses that will work for me to return by 5pm for the
show. The manager gives me dispensation to return to the museum, but the hill
up is a long climb for me, especially since I still have to return to the
ticket office and walk it again. Decide to stay put, which was fortunate since
I met two delightful young Swedish men. One is an artist and the other a
journalist and we had some time to hang out together.
My problem with Naoshima is that I don’t ride a bike which
it appeared that most people did which gave a greater freedom. The next day it
rained, not a gentle sweet rain, but a relentless gray constant downpour. I
started to walk towards Honmura to see the Art Project when my land lord
rescued me with his car. Dutifully bought the ticket to see the 6 buildings,
managed one which was again an Ando designed building and a James Turell art
work. For me it was not a pleasant experience, you ae in a totally dark room and
then asked to walk towards a lit rectangle. I was very afraid of stumbling and
falling since there was nothing to hold on to, of course it was fine.
Leave with the map in my hand and now it is pouring, I
have had it and catch the bus to go back and get my luggage. My land lord is
very kind and drives me to the other port so I can catch the ferry to
Takamatsu.
October 28
Takamatsu
Left Naoshima in pouring rain and it continued the next day
in Takamatsu. Am staying at a Dormy Inn with a fake onsen. Fake or not it is
delicious to lie in the warm water under a soggy sky. I realized that my body
needed to take it easier than I had anticipated, canceled my reservations in
Tokushima added on a night here and another in Matsuyama. Felt good about that,
took my sweet time getting ready since it was raining and plans were sketchy
after the art museum.
My hotel is in a very good location, situated between two
shopping arcades, the one on the left which was on the way to the museum was
bedlam. It hosted a Halloween celebration through the entire arcade. The
children were in costumes, the parents were in costumes the traffic directors
were in costumes one could not help but smile. I was told this is a fairly
recent event, people had to sign up by September 28 to obtain coupons to be
exchanged for candy and other treats. Commercial or not it was a joyous
beginning to my day.
It just got better, The Takamatsu Art Museum had a
special exhibit called Materials That Tell Stories,
Do not consider myself an art connoisseur by any means,
this exhibit blew my mind. There were 6 artists and all but one totally touched
me in different ways. The talents and creativity were amazing. One artist had
used plastic clothespins to create sculptures and designs. He had used 80.000
pins because there are 80.000 children in this prefecture. Managed to catch a
docent who had just finished her talk and got a kind soul to translate. Had lunch
at the museum, which is in itself a beautiful very modern building. It is still raining as I leave but it was tolerable so I
decided to go to Ritsurin Garden. Despite the weather it was still a great
experience. In my opinion this is one of the most magnificent gardens in Japan.
Actually it is more of a park. Met a group of elderly
women who were on a guided tour, one of them assisted me across some slippery
stones and that was enough for us to bond. Unfortunately, the language barrier
was too great, that is until we left the garden and two of the women exited and
couldn’t figure out how to get back in, when I left I saw a gate that opened so
you could get back in, the laughs could be heard for blocks. I find that the
Japanese have such a capacity for joy. The rain made a final appearance by
emptying all the clouds at once, before it decided to call it quits.
Today sunshine but cold winds, had read about this open
air museum , Shikoku-Mora, of old farm houses and fishermen’s cottages. Why
does everything have to be built on top of hills? Managed to climb up but
avoided crossing the vine bridge, Many of the paths were closed as were most of
the buildings, am sure it is very interesting when that is not the case. I really liked Takamatsu, it seems to be a city that
slowly unfolds itself, could have stayed longer, to explore the outer islands would
be nice.
Returned to the hotel for a nap and to repack as I move
on tomorrow for Matsuyama.
November 1
Matsuyama
The largest city on Shikoku island with a population of
approx. 600.000. There might be a lot to see and do but I only found a few
things. What I found was a very modern city with quaint streetcars. The second
day I bought a day pass from the driver, there is only one car, when I got off
he inspected the pass as if he had never seen it to make sure that the Year,
Month and Day that he had scratched off were in fact correct.
The ride on the JR line coming from Takamatsu was very
pleasant, basically running along the shore line of the Inland Sea with the
mountains on the other side. What always amazes me is the farmland that often
seems to be between houses. Of course on this stretch there are a lot of rice
fields and other crops, but it is the small plantings that amaze. In Kyoto all
of a sudden you see farm land in the city. The other thing that really amazes
me is how house owners with no front yard create an entire garden by planting
in pots. This is all over the country, and I think it is fantastic. A bit scary
when the typhoon hits and they start blowing around, the next day however it is
all fixed.
Arrived around 2 pm and was prepared to take a taxi, the
tourist office said no a street car is fine it’s number 5. Great am all for
public transport, except in this case you had to reach the tram stop with an
underpass, stairs u and down. I made it but did not have a good time trying.
Have no idea what got into me when I packed but it is heavy.
The hotel is off another shopping arcade, I had great
directions, but when older Japanese men see me they have to take over. This
little man had his phone out and insisted I follow him, I did dragging my
luggage. We passed the hotel, went around the block and then triumphantly he
showed me the entrance. Have been very fortunate this trip that the places I
picked are close to transportation, this hotel even has a real Onsen. Today a
man decided to take me by the elbow to show me where to go, and then he asked
the people on line to assist me. It’s sweet and funny and fortunately a daily
occurrence.
Checked in and then I went to see Matsuyama castle, it’s
another very old castle, and it has a cable car to reach the lower entrance.
The castle is beautiful and I now appreciate more of the history after seeing
and reading about the different fiefdoms.
Went for dinner to a sushi restaurant, wanted to treat
myself, it’s very hard to spend a lot of money unless you go to a really fancy
place. Though food is my profession I find it difficult to differentiate, unless it
is spectacular, between good and better.
Next morning, got an early start and went to Mitsu the
original port and fishing village of Matsuyama. Asked the receptionist how to get to the station and she
tells me I have to walk, no buses. Stupid me did not ask about the tram, which
of course I could have taken.
I don’t care what the guide books say, don’t bother. It
was very funny when I arrived I showed the bus driver the Matsuyama official
guide and asked where this old quarter was. He had no idea, until he decided
that I should walk down a street, which I did. That’s how I discovered that
there are probably 3 old houses. The weather was glorious and I enjoyed my 2
mile walk to nowhere.
Got back to Matsuyama and decided to go to Dogo Onsen
which is a tram ride away. It is quite cute and not to be missed is the Botchan
Karakuri Clock which on the hour has figures moving and the whole clock comes
alive. Walked around and had a most reasonably priced and delicious lunch at
Oidenka whose English menu is on a tablet, that you order from.
The whole time I have been here have only seen 5 non
orientals. 3 who were doing a pilgrimage and a couple arriving to the Onsen
today. There is very little written in English and very few people speak it. At my hotel the receptionist smiles nicely when I ask
what does the sign for The Realization Machine in the elevator mean. She
doesn’t have a clue even when I point out the Japanese name she still has no
idea, So I still don’t know, was hoping for some kind of enlightenment or
something.
Nov 2
Fukuoka
As I leave the hotel I take a picture of the Japanese name
for realization machine, but it did not take, my phone camera does not always
cooperate. I had asked a gentleman who said it had to do with money, but it was
not an ATM.
Flew Japan Airlines from Matsuyama to Fukuoka, probably
the most uncomfortable seats ever, fortunately it was a short flight. From the
airport to the AirBnB it was a fairly short ride by subway.
Shortly after my arrival this tall guy walks in, he was
the other guest. I ask him where he is
from and he says Sweden, I answer in Swedish, he doesn’t listen to what I said
it so he repeats what he said and finally the penny drops. It turns out that he
grew up 1 ½ blocks from where I grew up in Stockholm. Though the age difference
is probably 55 years we had such similar memories. It was very nice, he is
teaching English in Soeul and hopefully we will hook up this weekend.
Am trying to finally keep to my schedule yesterday was
the festival in Karatsu which I attended. There were 6 floats which were made
in the late 1800’s though the festival is from the 1600’s. Managed to get to
where the floats started and also acquired a five minute boyfriend. There were
so many photos taken of us and the merriment was high. Walked along the parade
route and then lost them. Did catch up eventually but the crowds were enormous
so I sat down at a stand for a bite and something to drink. It may be a historic festival, but food and drinks are
what its all about as far as I can tell. A few carnival like games for children
e.g. fishing for Goldfish.
As I am sitting there two women join my table, one of
them speaks fairly good English, so she strikes up a conversation, the next
thing I know we are progressing together. She informs me that they like to drink,
am unable to deny a proclivity, so she steers us to a miniature beer garden
where we each have a beer and they get something to eat. I am more than ready
to leave, the crowd is enormous and my hips are bothering me, so they kindly
take me to the station while they continue partying.
Get home to rest for a bit and do laundry, time to head
out again and I search for a Yatai which is a small food cart with seating. It exists as far as I know only n Fukuoka. I went to the closest area which is Tenjin and sat down. Ordered Ramen and a beer, next thing this
couple sits down next to me, they are from near Kyoto, as far as I can
understand. Before the evening was over I now have a standing invitation to
come visit. How can you not love a country where things like this happens?
Get up early next morning to go to Saga for the balloon
festival, get there, and it is cancelled too windy. This explains the long line
of people waiting for the return train. I walk around the fairgrounds because
that is exactly what it looks like. More food than you can possibly eat,
carnival games, and more food. I decide to go to Huis ten Bosch, because that
is where the train says its going, it’s a Dutch themed park and where else am I
going? The train stops at Arita, known for its porcelain, perfect, it was on my
list of to dos so jump off. It’s Saturday and most places are closed I walk on
and encounter a photographer, who is catching a photo of a rare train. He ends
up driving me to the porcelain shopping mall, which is overwhelming. It didn’t
seem very far from the station, but it was. When I asked which direction to
walk another kindly soul drove me and my purchases there.
Somebody asked me if I don’t get lonely during the day,
and honestly no. I seem to encounter people all the time who want to use their
English. Coming back on the train there was a family and the wife wanted to
know where I was staying, then she proceeded to tell me what to see and where
to go. Which is not to say that there have been a few down moments, actually
only one that I can think of now. Time for bed as tomorrow is a toss up do I go to the LBGT
parade or Yanagawa or the Japanese garden. So many choices, fortunately have a few more days before
Nagasaki.
There were a few responses to my question and they were
overwhelmingly for the LGBT parade.
Fortunately I didn’t pay attention but went to see
Nanzoin Temple. This was another place with lots of stairs, unfortunately they
didn’t lead anywhere, I kept on going up and up and a dead end. Down I went and
tried another set of stairs same result. I was sorry I did not get to see the
temple, but I got tired, the Buddha I had seen the original in Myanmar so
didn’t care. Eventually I gave up and returned to the station, as I was about
to cross the street this elderly woman was all atwitter, grabbed my arm and
kept on pointing. I know that this is not what she said but to my untrained
ears it sounded like “Korean shrine” all of a sudden these Sumo wrestlers
appear. No wonder she was excited, one of them was Hakuho probably one of the
greatest Sumo Wrestlers in recent times. I did get two great pictures and he
shook my hand. Actually he shook everybody’s hand and it was exciting,
especially to see the hero worship that people bestowed on him. We were only a
handful there.
Got back to town in time for the parade, which had left
as I arrived I saw the rear of it, but it was returning so I didn’t care. I
think my friends and I had expected something like New York, but on a smaller
scale. That was not the case, this was more like a community street fair in a
park, with a somewhat gay theme. The 4 drag queens that were present all had
their picture taken with me.
They were all gorgeous and obviously had made an effort,
there was a 6 foot+ Texas boy who had a
show that he handed out flyers to, but I wasn’t interested. Had ordered a dish
of fried chicken, which wasn’t quite ready, so I decided to walk around, one of
the workers made a point of getting me so I could claim my meal. It was all
very sweet. However not the photo-op that had been expected.
I had quite a long conversation with a woman who
represented a group called Rainbow Cookies,
She said that there has been some progress, the mayor had
cut a ribbon the night before and acknowledged the parade. It was also listed
in the Tourist guide what to do in Fukuoka.
The next day I went to Yanagawa which is famous for its
canals , and the ole driven canal boats.
I had bought my train ticket, canal drive and eventually
lunch separately, however there is a combination ticket which is sold at Tenjin
station for about $50 which would have saved me $5.
Actually Tenjin and Hakata stations have several deals
that if you live by another station you are unable to avail yourself of. A one
day unlimited subway ticket is 620yen for another 100 yen at those stations you
get a two day unlimited pass.
Back to Yanagawa, the 1-hour canal ride was lovely, the
boatman kept up a running commentary in Japanese and whenever we went under a
bridge he sang songs, while we were doubled over so as not to hit our heads. As
usual my travel karma was with me and my companions were a family from Hong
Kong. The sister who was about my age lived there but her brother and
sister-in-law lived in Toronto. We ended up going to the famous eel restaurant, which
they had coupons for, and I paid about $35 with a beer. Am not so sure that I
thought the secret sauce for the eel was worth the secret. I have had better
and tastier, then again who am I to argue with success. The restaurant is
enormous, I would say several hundred
seats spread out over a few buildings. It was a very nice experience all the
same.
Despite the fact that I had 6 nights in a great AirBnB
there are so many places I did not get to go to.
Really liked Fukuoka or Koka as the natives call it. My
last lunch was at Chikae, a landmark with large pools containing fish centered
around the diners. It was a very good meal and an interesting introduction to
Alaskan Pollock spicy roe to eat with your rice.
Nov 9
Nagasaki
It was with mixed feelings that I left Fukuoka for Nagasaki.
I really liked the city and there were so many things left unseen and undone.
However before I caught the train, I went to the Hokkaido festival at Hakata
Hankyu. This is something unique to Japan I believe, the food department within
a department store sponsors a region. Last year it was Kyushu in Takashimaya in
Tokyo. Different vendors give you small tastes and then you can purchase the
items. A dining area is set up with the regions specialties. I bought a bento
box with crab meat, sea urchin and salmon roe to eat on the train. The train ride despite the rain and grayness was
spectacular, it goes past villages that look as stage settings and then the
sea, these views continued until we were almost in Nagasaki and when it became
industrial and ugly.
My hotel is literally across the street from the station,
except in order to cross the street you have to climb stairs, and then descend
stairs. Fortunately there were elevators, but not for reaching the street
cars. Am staying at APA hotel because I
have to leave at 6.30 am on the 13th and didn’t want to have to
travel far. As it happens it is next door to the long distance bus terminal,
bought my ticket today, it takes me straight to the international terminal at
Fukuoka airport at half the price of a train ticket.
Didn’t do much on my first afternoon, except went to
Chinatown which was inundated with Chinese and Korean tourists I was really
tired and went back to the hotel. Am also suffering from a strange foot
condition that kept on waking me during the night. First time on this trip I
slept until 11.30 am, guess I needed it. Eventually got going and decided to
visit the Cathedral and Glover garden and residence. It is a park built for
Thomas Blake Glover, a Scottish merchant
who contributed to the modernization of modernization of Japan in shipbuilding, coal mining, and other fields. The
access to Glover Gardens was most civilized, escalators, and rolling walkways
to take you to the top. It was a lovely visit with fantastic views of the
harbour and a delightful walk down.
The day was sunny with
clear skies it seemed a good idea to go to Mt. Inasa for the sunset and night
view of Nagasaki.PR is a wonderful thing, this night view is supposed to be
amongst the 3 best in the world together with Hong Kong and Monaco. It was very
nice, but so are most cities viewed from high up and lit up at night. To get
there was an ordeal, first we, a young German man and I, could not get off the
tram in time at our stop. He decided to walk back I to take the next tram. When
I got off at the correct stop there are no signs, I ask somebody who says to
take the bus and points to a bus that has arrived I get on, it turns out to be
completely wrong information, return to the starting point and meet some Dutch
people who lead me right. It is a very, very long walk to get to the cable car
as well as an uphill climb by now the the sun has set and the lights are on. It
is quite a spectacular view, my German friend is on the top tier taking
pictures. We end up having dinner at the restaurant. It is amazing how
reasonable food is in places that normally would be considered tourist traps.
My dinner of Champon, a local specialty, was 1050 yen, approx. $10. The same at
the airport, food prices were normal as was the cost
of water. Actually I forgot that I had water in my bag going through security,
all they did was put the bottle in a tester to make sure it was water, and let
me through
My knees and legs are
protesting the previous nights excursions even the back is starting to make
itself felt. Went to what used to be an island called Dejima, which was created
to intern the Portugese to prevent Christianity to grow. The visit was very
interesting, but have not been able to figure out why it was called a factory.
Am still trying to get my head around Nagasaki and the Western influence during
the Edo period when Japan was shut off from the rest of the world. The history
is very interesting, Christian martyrs, Korean mine workers, Dutch shippers,
the only export and import to Japan basically only in Nagasaki. After a visit
to a market street, and making full use of my unlimited tram pass by going in
the wrong direction, and getting off at the wrong spot it was time to call it a
day before the rain hit.
A few thoughts, renting of
costumes is very popular, in Kyoto young girls and boys rent kimonos for the
day. Her at Glover garden there are period dresses from the 1800’s that girls
were wearing. Toilets with delightful warm seats also have a privacy button
that simulates the sound of running water. The Japanese are the most courteous
of people until it comes to public transportation. You would think that there
will never be another train, bus or tram the way they push Most older people
die their hair black, but the quality of the product is so much nicer with no
brassy effects. Cheese is expensive and hard to find, yougurt is cheap and
plentiful. Fruit is expensive and very limited.
Last year whilst in Japan I lost or at least did not gain
weight, that was because I didn’t know how fantastic baked goods is here. This
time I am just enjoying what I buy, fortunately did not discover this
incredible super market with wonderful baked goods until today. It is one of
the largest supermarkets I have seen, only wish I had room to put unknown foods
in my suitcase. Also very good prices, I guess that is because Walmart has
something to do with it. At least all the cash registers has Walmarts logo!!!!!
What an incredible day this has been, it was much cooler but
the sun was shining and the sky was blue. Did a toss-up between Hus Ten Bosch
or the Penguin Aquarium, the Penguins won. It started when I was standing by
the bus stop and two women approached me to ask here I was going, not only was
I at the wrong stop, which was discovered after a phone call, but they would
not leave until they saw me safely on the right bus. Even if you don’t care for
penguins, the ride is so beautiful going into the mountains where the slopes
are covered in bamboo, then descending towards the sea.
There are a total of 18 species of penguins in the world, 9
live at the aquarium. As I am walking around and enjoying the penguins, you can
get quite close to them, a woman approaches me and tells me that there will be
a behind the scenes tour and to get a ticket. While we are waiting she takes me
to a beach area on the bay where there are penguins who we feed Horse Mackerel
to, a Japanese variety of fish, which we throw into the water for the penguins
to catch. During the tour we find out
that all the fish that is fed to the penguins have had their fins removed,
because they could get caught in their throats. What a job to have, they must use
thousands of fish a day.
There are 10 people on the tour, which is conducted in
Japanese, but I get the gist of some of it. Really wish I had understood what
was said. We start out at the pump room which is quite mind boggling, then we
go to a room where we see the top of one of the fish tanks. We see shrimp
larvae under a microscope and feed the fish in the tank with a mixture of fish
and shrimp. The last stop is behind the warm climate penguins, for lack of a
better word, plaza. We walk by the penguins that are still out close enough to
touch. There are pens for them that they sit in and rest after having been fed
in front of people. All the way in the back there are two penguins one is
laying on her egg with I assume her mate standing next to her. After the tour,
the guide who knows a little English points out two babies. One is 4 months old
the other 9 months they have not yet acquired the markings of their parents.
This was such an extraordinary experience and apparently very rare that this
tour is given. Have a $4 lunch and sit outside when the penguins who live in
the bay decide to go for a walk up the beach. The guard goes to stop them, they
turn back, except one who cannot decide whether to join his pals or stay on the
beach. What a fun, educational and interesting day. Now I am off to search for
an Izakaya and try some Japanese whisky.
Japan a wrap.
Am very sad that this is my last day and night in Japan.
Spent the morning repacking, and again chastising myself for taking such a
small suitcase. No room for gifts or other purchases. Went to have lunch at a
department store. It is amazing the amount and variety of restaurants that are
on the top floor of each department store. Then went on to a Zen temple, but
had no energy for any more sightseeing.
Last night was again one of those serendipitous occurrences.
Took myself off to Shanbashi, which according to the web is a neighborhood of
debauchery, and only to be briefly visited. However, it is also the area where
the Izakayas are to be found. Took a tram and started walking, true it is still
early around 8 pm but so far it looks very tame. Walk into a posh bar called
The Bardyyyz, only because I followed somebody and it looked so high design, It
was, there were 4 bartenders to two guests, supposedly they get busy later.
Ordered a blended Whisky which was very good and expensive $18, had sort of
suspected this to be the case. My bartender spoke some English, so I asked him
for a place to eat.
He first makes a phone call, then walks me personally to
a tiny restaurant in a back alley. The place has hundreds of Sakes maybe 8
seats at the counter and a back dining room. I am made to feel very welcome,
though the bartender had warned me it was all Japanese speaking, it turns out
the several people at the counter spoke English. I had a Sashimi platter
preceded by a kelp soup with a quail egg that was spectacularly good. It was
served with Sake, which was came in an earthenware pot, whereas the others were
served in hand blown glassware from Okinawa, as were the plates and sake
glasses. The place is run by a husband wife team, though its tiny they seem to
do well. The place is called Kaito, but am unable to read the address in
Japanese.
When I leave around 10.30 pm the streets are filled with
young people who are out for a night on the town, just as it should be.
Tomorrow, bus to Fukuoka airport, Tiger airlines to
Taipei and train to Hualien. It will be a long day with an early start.
Sayonara
