Am at the beginning of a 6 week trip to Japan and Taiwan. This time am traveling with a friend of mine for the first 3 weeks, retracing my steps from my first visit. We are going to Tokyo, Takayama, Kanazawa and Kyoto with some side trips here and there. Ulrica my friend, returns to New York and I will continue to Hokkaido and Taiwan on my own.
Flight over on Japan airlines in First class. thank you Chase Sapphire Reserve points. The Japanese meal was exquisite probably better than many restaurants.
Then the bed with a choice of mattress firmness and the most comfortable pyjamas made the 14 hour flight very palatable.
When we arrived in Haneda we picked up our 2 one week Jr passes and the 72 hour unlimited Tokyo metro card.
For our first 4 nights in Tokyo we stayed in Asakusa at B Tokyo Hotel. Ulrica wanted to move into our bathroom with it’s very fancy shower and of course a Toto toilet that kept you warm as you sat on it, apart from all the other bells and whistles. It washes and dries you both front and rear and you get up and off it feeling refreshed.
The first order of business next morning after our very substantial multi national breakfast, courtesy of the hotel, was getting a portable keyboard so that I can write my travel letters on my phone.. First order of business going to Akihabara the electronic Mecca of Tokyo. Since we got an early start we visited the Kanda Myoin Shrine, which was on top of a hill with really steep steps approaching it unless you choose to walk uphill on a street. We choose the stairs!!! What were we thinking?
My last keyboard was purchased at Yodobashi so that is where we headed. We finally located the floor and area where the keyboards were sold.
The salesman used a voice translator and after many back and forths we discovered that my keyboard was out of stock, that is until another salesman pulled a box and said this was what I was looking for, except it wasn’t, which I discovered when I unpacked it back at the hotel.
While at the store I bought a 3G 30 day data only sim card. The hotels usually have Wi-Fi as do the trains, it seemed a waste of money to rent a Wi-Fi. Since I have both Viber and Whatsapp on my android phone data is all I need cost approx $30 We finished our shopping experience with lunch on the 8th floor. delicious Tuna Sashimi and a beer.
Next morning we went back to return the keyboard, but not until I had managed to order one from Amazon with same day delivery. At the store the clerk used another voice translator and asked “what were the symptoms” as I tried to explain it was the wrong item. Eventually I was able to return it but not until a pretty hard sales tactic was used.
After our successful return, we were booked to attend a classical Japanese Dance class at the Asakusa Cultural Center. This is a free class that I saw online with company called Peatix.
There were approx 20 men and women who got attired in Yukatas. Then we each received a maiogi which is the name for a folding fan.After a very cheerful greeting we got a lesson in opening the fan and making fluttering movements with it. A very beautiful young girl demonstrated each movement and step. It was very educational to recognize each position of the fan and what it was indicating. May be I will gain a greater understanding of watching Japanese dances.. My conclusion was that I had not missed my calling, felt very clumsy and awkward, especially as I was watching two guys from Hawaii in front of me, they joked that their hula lessons paid off. After the lesson we were treated to a performance by a professional dancer what a lovely experience.
The Sensoji Temple was right across the street, it is claimed to hae been buit in 628. A very large compound with many shops and restaurants. Amongst the crowds were Rugby fans from all over world and of course other tourists as well.. We had been recommended to have lunch at Daikokuya tempura restaurant that specialises in dark sesame oil tempura. Apparently you either hate or love it, we were much closer to the former than the latter school. After exploring the grounds and heading towards our hotel, we discovered Don Quijote a multi story discount.shop and a passage with high end desserts just a block or so from our hotel. Who could resist a black sesame icecream with all sorts of additions, not I.
That evening we had been invited to Elizabeth Andoh and her husband to attend a watching fireworks party. Elizabeth is an old friend of mine who is a food writer with many cookbooks and articles under her belt as well as a cooking teacher and Japanese food expert, she and her Japanese husband have an apartment from which you can see Mt. Fuji and spectacular fireworks. the food was as expected very simple yet complex and very good. We left before the end to avoid the crowds on the train. It seemed as if half of Tokyo had ventured out to watch,
Happiness my keyboard was waiting when we returned, amazing same day delivery. I know that Amazon offers that in New York, somehow I didn't expect it in Tokyo.
We caught the train to Yokohama where my friend Agneta lives, who met us at the station. She drove us around. It certainly whetted my appetite to explore the city further. Yokohama is a port where cruise ships arrive, but so much more. We saw the Bluff district where foreigners settled in the mid 1800’s with their opulent mansions. Chinatown also founded mid 1800’s was so very Chinese with its temples and alleys. It was fascinating to hear Agneta describe her family and its contribution to Yokohama. If only we had more time to spend, to explore, and to enjoy but it was not to be.
The dining room overlooks a koi pond and garden which is very soothing and enjoyable to look at. I did some writing and before dinner which is at 6 pm we went into the onsen which had been filled with wine, salts and other minerals, total bliss. Then came dinner which was an awakening of all the senses, there was a bowl of tomato soup, with a tofu filled tomato in the center. Yuba, dried tofu skin on seaweed, house made natto, fermented soybeans on fried Yuba and several other dishes. One more delectable than the other. Dessert was a soy milk ice cream with different fruit preserves. After dinner there was a dance performance by one of the staff members, he comes from Yamada, a city hit by the tsunami, and this is a dance from that city. It involved a lot of acrobatics and an umbrella as well as a round item made of bamboo. Junko explained that he does this to entice people to go to Yamada as they need tourism.
We got an early start to go to
Kamakura, which is an easy day trip from Tokyo via Yokohama, to see the temples
and of course the large Buddah. Kamakura was the political center of medieval Japan and has many Buddhist temples and Shinto Shrines. When we arrived we bought a bus pass that was
valid all day. The lady in the information booth assured us that we could walk
from shrine to shrine and that the day pass was a luxury. We really appreciated
our daypass as distances were a fair walk. One shrine in
particular the Tauragaoka Hachiman-gu was outstanding. One of the reasons may
have been all the 3 and 5 year old children we saw in elaborate kimonos. It is
a traditional rite of passage called shichi go san or 7-5-3 to celebrate the
growth and wellbeing of the children. One child was cuter than the next.
We saw quite a few other shrines, the bamboo groves and moss
gardens were spectacular, but the highlight of our trip was the Bronze
Buddah constructed in 1252, approx 34 ft tall. Ulrica went inside and has still
not stopped talking about the construction of it. Before we left for
Yokohama we had lunch at a revolving sushi counter which was very fresh and
delicious. It is similar to a dim sum restaurant in that you grab a dish from
the conveyor belt and at the end the waitress adds the assorted coloured plates
and tallies the bill.
We caught the train to Yokohama where my friend Agneta lives, who met us at the station. She drove us around. It certainly whetted my appetite to explore the city further. Yokohama is a port where cruise ships arrive, but so much more. We saw the Bluff district where foreigners settled in the mid 1800’s with their opulent mansions. Chinatown also founded mid 1800’s was so very Chinese with its temples and alleys. It was fascinating to hear Agneta describe her family and its contribution to Yokohama. If only we had more time to spend, to explore, and to enjoy but it was not to be.
Early am departure
for Tokayama and the autumn festival
We had booked the Hotel Tabino which
was a little outside Takayama centre. No big deal we thought since there was a
shuttle service. We arrived at the station at 1.30 and called the hotel. The
shuttle would pick us up at 3.30, that was it. We took a taxi and when we
arrived we had been assigned a postage sized room with a double bed. After a
lot of back and forth, which seems to be a pattern, we got a larger room with
twin beds, for of course more money. We bought breakfast for the first day, but
decided it was not worth it. With Family Mart across the road and refrigerator
in the room we could do better.
Since not much was happening until
later we took the shuttle to the station and then a bus to Hida Heritage
village which I had wanted to visit. It was very interesting with different
dwellings from the area. We had not paid attention to the bus schedule and just
missed one as we wanted to leave. We were fortunate in being able to
hitch a ride with a couple who we think were going our way. Being Japanese
they may have been too polite to tell us otherwise.
When we got into town we inspected the
festival wagons that were lined up on the main street. These wagons are about
300 years old and each belong to a ward. The men from that ward man and
maneuver these people drawn wagons. They are very elaborately decorated and
have been restored for 100+thousands of dollars. It is very exciting to watch
the procession.
When they had passed we decided to
check out the street food that was offered and passed the time before the
evening parade, shopping and looking around. Ulrica was all set on getting a wooden
spinner she had seen. We went into the shop that looked likely to carry this
kind of item, but they didn’t. However, they sent us across the street to a
souvenir shop that then sent us elsewhere but not until the owner walked us
there, she finally found the item, and bought a few spinners.
Time for the evening procession which I
think is so much more impressive with the live lanterns and candles hanging off
the wagons. We were extremely fortunate in finding a couple from California
that had occupied a table at a pop-up serving ramen and sake. We joined them
and had a perfect view as well as a great evening. We walked to the station and
got a shuttle back.
Check out next morning . We are going
to Kanazawa and there is a typhoon warning. Last time I was in Kanazawa a
typhoon hit, was not looking forward to that experience again.
We managed to have a nice day seeing the Kenroku-en
garden, Samurai quarters, the palace andthe Omicho market.
Right now concern for the typhoon named Hagidis is
on top of the list. We were supposed to stay in Kanazawa 2 nights at the
Kanazawa Manten Hotel. This hotel is totally unmanned until 4 pm check in time
FYI. When we found out that all train service had been cancelled on
Sunday we decided to leave Saturday. This was not a problem,our hotel in Tokyo
was able to accomodate us. The hotel booked through Agoda, in Kanazawa, had no
problem canceling one night. Agoda had a big problem and I am still trying to
sort it out. Which after a lot of to dos got sorted out.
We were able to leave on the last train
from Kanazawa at 11.45 am to Tokyo on Saturday.
It was a grey day with rain but since
it was still before Hagidis touchdown we weren't affected.
Arriving into Tokyo was a very
interesting and somewhat scary experience. The station was empty nothing was
open, we seemed to be the last people exiting. There were a lot of taxis
waiting with the rain pelting down we grabbed one to take us to our hotel. No cars or people on the streets, Tokyo
was a ghost town. We were fortunate in that we were not affected, watching the
news was a very sad experience that we escaped.
Woke up this morning to a brilliant
blue sky. There were still disruptions in the train services but we managed to
get to Akihabara. Had left my USB cables and charger in Takayama and needed to
replace them. Then we went to the Imperial Palace to see the East Garden.
15,000 steps later I was ready to call it a day. We have actually walked
approx. 5 miles a day and my body feels it. We are back at our hotel,
when we checked in we were given a lot of perks and amenities including fancy facemasks,
guess how we ended the day?
Monday we left for Shinjuku. What great
part of Tokyo, brilliant colorful signs, so very much alive it makes you happy.
We had gotten a late start and went for lunch at Takashimaya. Neither of us had
planned on meat but I saw a picture of a hamburger and got a craving. The meat
was wagyu and came with a seared exterior, that I then had to continue to cook
on a heated iron puck.. It was just right, my first red meat meal in months and
I did so enjoy it.
We then went down to the basement
floor, I wanted to show Ulrica all the food stations that I remembered, Her
reaction was WOW and so was mine I didn’t recall the plethora of different
brands being represented, as well as all the variety of foods. We spent a lot of time just drooling.
When we left we headed for the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building which is
very imposing and quite beautiful. Another good walk We had wanted to go to the
observation tower, which of course was closed. We were tired after some shopping and
the walks so we went home.
Today was magical. We started at The
Tokyo Metropolitan building and asked for a guide at the tourist information
center. We were blessed with Mariko, who spoke very good English and gave us an
excellent private tour, There was an extra bonus, a friend of mine had been
visiting her sister and left yesterday. It turned out that her sister is an
abused wife. What Mariko showed us was the office for foreigners that need
help. It provides legal advice and other assistance. She went in to enquire if
there was an office in Yokohama ,
but did not get a proper answer. As we continued our walk a gentleman
came running after us with all the information we needed. We saw the
assembly hall of the governor and various part of the building. The observation tower was very
impressive with panorama windows. There is also a grand piano in the middle of
the space where visitors can play. A young girl played a piece that moved
us greatly. She is a conservatory student and I predict a great future.
After we said goodbye to Mariko, who
invited us when we return to Japan to stay with her, we felt we left a friend. What
a great beginning to our day.We then continued to Miei shrine which was reached
by a long walk through what felt like a tunnel of large trees. As we approached
we heard a big drum. The drumming continued for a while in varying intensity. Two
Shinto priests appeared for a very ceremonial a ceremony. When we left we
passed a lot of barrels of wine from the Burgundy wine growers, as well as Sake
barrels all left to be consecrated.We walked through another boulevard
flanked by these large trees, the scent was deliciously fresh. We emerged in
Harajuku where we had a late lunch at a Spanish restaurant. By the time we
reached our hotel we had walked close to 15000 steps, at least 3000 underground
reaching different metro lines.
The one thing I had never done was to
go to the Shibuya Crossing, which is famous for the amount of people that cross
every day. Despite the drizzle we went there, it was sort of disappointing in
that there weren’t masses of people walking across. The fascinating thing
though which I have seen in other cities is that all four corners show green as
well as the diagonal crossing, pretty neat. While in the area we went to Muji a
Japanese chain to stock up on slip on socks, with some silicone in the heel
which prevents slipping down, Mission accomplished we proceeded to
Akasaka and Hie Shrine to see the row of Tori gates. They were very cute and
small going down a short hill. No comparison to Itari Shrine in Kyoto. We ended
the day by having dinner around the corner from our hotel at a winebar. Very
pleasant ending to our stay in Tokyo.
We got an
early start to catch our train to Kyoto.
I had been
telling Ulrica that this would be one of the most beautiful train stations she
would see on this trip. The platform we arrived on was a fair distance from the
middle of the station, and Ulrica kept on saying “You think this is beautiful?”
she did agree with me once we arrived and saw the escalators and the beautiful
central staircase. The view from the top is stunning overlooking Kyoto. We left
the building and crossed over a plaza and street to Japaning’s office where
could leave our luggage until check in time which was 4 pm. Since we have our
JR pass we took the JR bus to see the Golden shrine. It always catches my
breath to see how it is mirrored in the pond on which it sits. No wonder it is
a very popular site. We returned to get our luggage and proceed to our lodging
which is in a very quiet neighbourhood, one stop away from Kyoto station. I had
neglected to ask for a low floor and this is a no elevator building, of course
our room is on the top floor. Dear Ulrica carried my luggage, which I was
extremely grateful for. Those were very steep stairs.
The next day
was devoted to visiting the Miho museum designed by I. M. Pei in the middle of
the mountains of Shigaraki. One gets there by train and an hour long bus ride,
passing rice fields and bamboo groves. The landscape is very different from the
Japanese Alps, the mountains are stunning and I keep marveling how
beautiful Japan is. We arrive at the visitors center and there is an
electric cart to transport us to the museum. The road to the entrance must be
spectacular in the spring with all the plum trees in bloom. We pass through a
tunnel and cross a bridge and we are finally there. It is every bit as
magnificent and beautiful as I had imagined. We watched a movie on the building
of the museum, a mountain had been removed and when the museum which is mainly
underground, with natural lighting, was completed the mountain was
recreated with all the trees and plantings replaced including a 150 year old
pine tree. We spent several hours looking at the exhibits and having a
vegetarian lunch which was delicious, and very reasonably priced. By the time
we returned to the hotel we collapsed.
Sunday
We had been
told that there would be a parade in Arashiyama home of the famous bamboo
forest and many shrines and temples. In case you were wondering temples are
Buddhist and shrines Shinto, We arrived and asked where to parade would be. The
more people we asked the more confusing it got. We managed to walk through the
Bamboo forest which I had sworn to myself not to do again, this time the walk
was shared with 1000’s and 1000s of people as well as rickshaws and bikes.
We finally caught up with the procession by the river. As I understood it was
to commemorate a rite of passage from the 1300’s. A young girl had spent a year
at a shrine before she went to give thanks to the river. All the participants
were in costume of the period, the young girl in a carriage pulled by a bull,
her face painted white, with a beatific smile on her face the whole time. The
procession ended up in an area set aside for a religious ceremony led by Shinto
priests. We were so happy to have witnessed this, since we were not going to be
in Kyoto for the big annual procession, that we had scheduled our visit
to coincide with, it celebrates the founding of Kyoto as capital. It is
always held October 22nd, but this year it is October 26th because of the
emperor’s enthronement celebration. As they say the best laid plans etc.
Ulrca wanted
to go to Nara, I wanted some downtime so we agreed to split up for the day.
There were several places I had wanted to visit, mainly for the gardens, first
stop Murin-a is a typical strolling garden of the Meiji period (1868-1912). It
was built between 1894 and 1896 by Yamagata Aritomo, a Prime Minister. As much
as he loved the Japanese garden culture, he also had a deep interest in Western
culture evidenced by his house. Next stop was the Konchi-in temple garden which
is another example of beautifully laid out paths and a Koi pond, very few
visitors and a tranquil afternoon.
Tuesday our
last day, we started at Fushimi Inari shrine. Ulrica really wanted to walk
through all the gates to the top, but decided that fighting the crowds was too
much. She went on the side and passed a high school where they were practicing
wind instruments. She said it was a magical experience because the music was so
lovely. One forgets that the area where the shrine is situated is very much a
live neighborhood. We both have Viber on our phones so we could communicate
easily to connect where we would meet.The rest of
the day was spent walking the philosophers path to Ginkakuji also known as the
Silver pavilion. It is a Zen temple built in 1482. Again a moss garden to
marvel at, set amongst the mountains in Higashiyama. Time to leave Kyoto
for our temple stay.
A couple of weeks before we left there
was an article in Washington Post about a temple stay. Although a temple
stay is not something that I have been anxious to repeat after my
experience in Korea. The author made this sound extremely appealing, especially
since she stressed the owners culinary skills. We booked one night, our next to
last together, at Temple Lodging Shukubo Kakurinbo. It is
located in Minobu one train stop from Fuji, and a taxi drive from the station.
This is an area rich in temples there are over 20 lodgings but mainly for
pilgrims. Kakurinbo is unusual in that welcomes foreign visitors, actually
encourages them. We arrived to one of the warmest welcomes by Rico a
German member of the staff and Junko Higushi, the owner. We were immediately
made to feel as very treasured visitors, which gave us a warm feeling
inside.
The building is quite large, there are
two floors with tatami rooms.The walls are lined with wedding
kimonos that you can borrow for a photoshoot.
Our room on the second floor was
comfortable with some hangers for our clothes and a safe in case you wanted to
lock up your valuables since the sliding doors are without locks. The futons
that were put out while we were at dinner were probably the most comfortable I
have slept on.
That afternoon there was a photoshoot
of the food for an online magazine and an interview with Junko going on. We were
served lunch and introduced to Arena a young girl from Lithuania, who was a
resident, she is a buddhist and works in the kitchen and does other chores as
well to help Junko. She is a charming and pretty girl who was available all the
time for questions. The dining room overlooks a koi pond and garden which is very soothing and enjoyable to look at. I did some writing and before dinner which is at 6 pm we went into the onsen which had been filled with wine, salts and other minerals, total bliss. Then came dinner which was an awakening of all the senses, there was a bowl of tomato soup, with a tofu filled tomato in the center. Yuba, dried tofu skin on seaweed, house made natto, fermented soybeans on fried Yuba and several other dishes. One more delectable than the other. Dessert was a soy milk ice cream with different fruit preserves. After dinner there was a dance performance by one of the staff members, he comes from Yamada, a city hit by the tsunami, and this is a dance from that city. It involved a lot of acrobatics and an umbrella as well as a round item made of bamboo. Junko explained that he does this to entice people to go to Yamada as they need tourism.
We spent the night near Haneda airport
since Ulrica had an early flight back to New York and I was going to Hokkaido.
Not without some drama, I had booked the hotel for the 24th but
didn’t check my confirmation e-mail from Expedia which had me booked for the 29th.
After many nos and assurances that there was no twin bedded room, an hour later
we had one. Have now spent 1 1/2 hours with Expedia to credit my card back. It
does not look good. Finally resolved the problem after several weeks,
Hokkaido
Hakodate I so wanted to love you, or at
least like you, but it was not to be. Arrived with grey skies threatening
rain and it never changed. I did not find the city exciting, despite taking the
tram from end to end. Though it is arrounded by lovely mountains it has little
greenery that I saw. Went to the morning market which I found very expensive. 1
raw scallop $10 and 3 small abalone $15. Of course King Crab was the big draw,
but I just didn't take to it. Hakodate struck me as a parochial city with little
charm. When I dIdn’t know what to do with
myself, after having seen the Red Brick Warehouse a virtual merchandise and
souvenir center similar to so many in the U.S. I went to the Yunokawa Onsen
which was a nice experience. 3 different pools of varying degrees of heat. For
roughly $ 5 I got a skimpy towel and a bar of soap, which I considered a
bargain. What has struck me each time I have
been to an onsen is how thoroughly Japanese women scrub themselves and each
other before they feel ready to go in the water. Received many smiles and I felt much
better after my soak.
The weather never improved alternating
rain and grey skies. I was happy to leave.
Sapporo I didn’t know what to expect, but
it was instant love. I have always found it so interesting how some places
speak to you and others don’t. Well, Sapporo shouted at me from the second I
got off the train. I was staying at Best Western on Odoro-Nishi facing the
park. It was an easy bus ride and as I was to discover an easy walk to the
station and most other places.
Since I got in fairly early I went for
a walk in the park. The fall colours are glorious, the reds so very red and the
yellows very yellow. The sky was a bright cloudless blue, air crisp but not
cold I felt extremely content. As I was to feel for the next few days exploring
the city and walking many miles each day. Hokkaido is a not a very historical
area from a western standpoint. it was settled in the mid 1800’s as a
fishing and trading center. The cities are very modern with a few historical
buildings here and there.
My first morning went to the Nijo
fish market, walked around and towards the back I saw a fish monger that had a
very make shift eatery, that’s where I had oysters for breakfast. The
oysters here are large and creamy and affordable compared to other parts of the
country. I have only had them steamed in the past now I ate them sashimi style,
as is my custom. I was sitting next to a couple from Hong Kong who ordered
everything for sale including King Crab, they kindly offered me several legs so
sweet and very tasty. It was interesting to see how the fish mongers conducted
their regular business while catering to tourists. Speaking of which, if I saw
10 non-orientals during my time in Hokkaido that was a lot.
I spent one day visiting Otaru about 30
minutes by train. I had seen a video filmed by a Swedish young man who calls
himself “A hungry Tiger” and is eating his way around Asia
posting his adventures on You Tube. He
had been to Otaru and eaten grilled Herring. Of course I had to have that. With
a little bit of help I found my way to Aotsuka Shokudo, apparently a very
popular and famous place, a bus ride from the station by the aquarium. This
area is called Shukutsu and was based on herring fishing and even has several
herring lodges and a herring mansion.
The Herrings were very large and
skewered, the skewers were then put in vertically facing a carefully nurtured
charcoal fire. Have now experienced two firsts one eating fresh grilled
herring, the other eating it with chopsticks. It was delicious, but I think I still prefer it pickled.
Next to me was a woman from Tokyo who
was in Otaru for a few days. We managed to communicate by sign language and limited
English. She had rented a car and drove me back to town. What a charming little
town with many historical buildings, apparently the first railroad in Hokkaido
was built connecting Otaru to Sapporo in 1880. and it was an important
fishing port as well as coal center. It was really very lovely, I thoroughly
enjoyed walking around.
My new found friend had given me suggestions for
sushi places that were all conveyor belt in Sapporo. When I returned tdecided to
try her No 1 recommendation Naoyakatei. It has several branches I tried to go
to the one closest to the center. It was still a subway and a bus ride plus a
short walk away. One problem with Japan, everything is written in Japanese. I
arrived and there were two large eating establishments, which one to pick? I
choose the wrong one. When I walked in the door to the correct one, I was
greeted by loud shouts,. It reminded me of the place in Charlotte where we used
to eat sushi. Wish i knew what they shouted. Nagoyakatei lived up to its
reputation. It was very good and really indulged, it was still less then $25.In
case anybody is interested, the other two were sushi-hanamaru and
toiton-kita1
Today I went to Hokkaido University to
look at the Gingo trees. Have seen many tourist brochures and never understood
the appeal until I saw the trees with my own eyes. It is a canopy of golden
leaves, it totally takes your breath away. I wandered around the campus for a
couple of hours before I decided to head back. Am not sure how I missed the
subway entrance but I managed to clock 7 ½ miles. My dinner was in Ramen Alley
a clam and chicken broth Ramen that was very good My last night I went to
Hakura Ramen also in the Ramen Alley that was a very complex and rich ramen. So
far everything I have eaten has been excellent. Another meal I had was at a
restaurant specializing in uni or sea urchin as we know it. Now is not the
season which I knew but if I had come this far I was going to have some at this
restaurant. It was good but I have had better, couldn’t resist ordering the au
gratin which was advertised as ladies liking it. Lots of white sauce with a
hint of sea urchin flavour and a grilled piece on top. It was on my bucket
list, can now tick it off.
Sapporo has several parks and at this
time of year they are spectacular. Feel so fortunate that I managed to catch
the colours as today when I was leaving you could tell the end was near. I
basically walked around and admired the changing of the leaves and ate my way
through the city. Unfortunately my last sushi meal was a let down.
Next stop TaiPei in Taiwan.
