Thailand

Was dutifully picked up 6 am and got on a flight to Bangkok. It was like coming home, because everything was familiar. Agneta was there to greet me, caught up on internet and e-mail, then I went for a treat. anicure, a badly needed pedicure and finally eyelashes. There is a salon across the street from her house that does all of the above. Had decided last year to get the lashes, after seeing all the Korean flight attendants lashes, but didn't. This year the Singapore hostesses also had impossible lashes, so I knew it would be a reasonable desire. Fir those of you not in the know, there is a technique where false lashes are applied one by one on top of your own, the look is very realistic. The cost in NYC $200 in Bangkok $29 and they last for a
month. Not quite movie star but a definitive improvement.

Next morning I took a commuter boat on the Klonk to a market which was enormous, actually am not even sure that I was in the market I meant to be going to. There was very little that appealed to me and when XL
barely made it over my head, the rats were running around and motorcycles drove amongst the very narrow lanes I decided it was time to leave. Grabbed a taxi and showed him where I was going on a map. I
wanted to try Chote Chitr and it was clearly marked on a hand drawn map, together with a lot of other good eating places. The driver was a true Thai, he smiled and said I know, I know, that should have alerted
me that he didn't. We circled a few times and finally I got out and  found my location. The owner was there and pleasant enough, she served me a banana flower salad and river prawns, that with rice and a bottle of water was 490 baht or $14. The food was good especially the mixture served with the prawns was delicious. The owner was very funny, I thought, as she told me that Thais eat the head of the prawn but Americans not, so I was served beheaded prawns

The next day I met some internet friends, we ended up having lunch together and spending the afternoon just hanging out got to meet Maeng, the owner of Pickled Liver, an expat bar, which was also a treat, until it was time for me to go home and change for the dinner at the Swedish Ambassadors apartment, preceded by drinks around the pool at Rembrand Hotel, where all the meetings were held. The Ambassadors wife met us in jeans, am not sure if that was a statement on her part, the reaction from the guests was less than positive. The Thai buffet dinner was delicious and everyone left happy.

Thursday Madeleine, who lives in Luxembourg, had arrived as the other house guest and she and I went to MBK a shopaholics paradise and my nightmare. MBK is indescribable, it is a huge vertical mall, with
anything your heart desires at great prices. I found a pair of dressy shoes, Madeleine her bag, DVD's and underwear for her son. We had a really fun lunch there in a Japanese Shabu, conveyor belt, restaurant,
we had an electrically heated soup bowl in front of us and then everything we wanted to cook in it came off the belt. The concept was pure genius, all you could eat in 1 hr 15 minutes for a set price if you stayed longer there was an additional fee.

After lunch it was time for serious shopping, we were going for jewelry, well I wasn't. I had the name and phone numbers of a place that had been recommended by a friend, the taxi driver had no idea, so in the end we walked in to a hotel and asked for help. The jeweler came to pick us up in one of their minivans, and took us to this emporium. I had always imagined this place to be small and intimate, no such thing. They had beautiful jewelry, and I bought some things, also gave them some repairs, the cost of which was much less than in New York. I am happy with what I bought and so was my friend, whether we got great bargains or not, who knows.

Since this was a regional meeting for Swedish women from all over Asia but with attendees from other parts of the world, sight seeing tours had been set up. I had signed up for the Grand Palace which was combined with a tour of the flower market,, a Klong tour, and lunch. The Grand Palace was spectacular, it was fun to see the Emerald Buddah after having visited the original temple in Vientiane. The temples were exquisite, and everything very well maintained, the rest of the tour I could have done without.

Getting back to Sikhanout took forever and a bit, finally I asked to let off by the nearest Sky Train station since I had to get back home to change for the Gala Dinner. I made it to the dinner, with a few minutes to spare but only after having hailed a motorcycle taxi. If you have never ridden on the back of a motorcycle taxi in Bangkok you have not lived, or maybe it is almost died. These young men ride between the cars, take every opening, however slim, sometimes ride on the sidewalks and get you to your destination very fast.They are more expensive than the regular taxis, but very efficient. The drawback is that you are exposed to all the exhaust fumes, am not sure if my subsequent bad health was due to that or something else.

The next day we left early for Chiang Mai where we stayed at a beautful new hotel called RatiLanna.
The guides that we had with us for the three days were very efficient and entertaining, a great contrast to our Bangkok guide. The entire package had been arranged by Nordic Tours on behalf of Swea, am not
sure how much thought had gone into it. There were 32 of us, which meant a large bus for transportation, which we all piled into after checking in. We were taken to a lovely spot for lunch  I unfortunately don't know the name. It was located on a small pond, and the food was very good. When we returned into town we all were taken by rickshaws to see a temple with a wax statue of a monk who had died at the age of 96, and
is to be cremated next month. There was a very lively debate going on between us whether he had blinked or not. It certainly was a very lifelike figure, sitting there.

After the Wat visit, it was time for a Thai massage. It was a very painful experience and though I indicated that she should leave my poor knees alone, they were contorted into various positions. Since it was my first experience with a Thai massage I don't know if torture is part of it. All I know is that I have been in pain ever since.

Back to the hotel and a cocktail party on the lawn. There was a wedding going on at the same time so we had some really good dance music to get up and gyrate to. The unfortunate part for me, was that my throat at this point was very painful as were my legs and it was impossible to sleep because of the music. Eventually it stopped and after a few hours sleep it was time to get up and do merit with the monks. A very different experience than in Luang Prabang, here we had packages of cooked food to distribute, plus a beautful Lotus flower to each monk. They did not come in an orderly procession rather 6 or 8 at the time. When we had given them the food we were blessed by beautiful chanting, this continued a few more times until there were no more packages. Am not sure that I feel this to be a very meaningful experience, though the food I am sure is put to good use. We had coffee and croissant, my case rice porridge, for breakfast before we continued up the mountain to yet another temple.

The road was long and winding, there was a bike race going on at the same time. Why, anyone would put hemselves through such agony, is beyond me but then again if perhaps I pursued some form of physical
exercise those knees might be better? We returned to the hotel and had a lovely large breakfast, then it was
shopping time, we were taken to a silk factory and then a silver factory and lastly leather factory. After a few minutes at the silk place I asked if there was any way to get back to the hotel, since this was not how I wanted to spend my time. A car was procured and 4 of us returned to spend a few hours by the pool, for a much needed breather.

That evening we were taken to a very lovely part for dinner. It belonged to the University of Chiang Mai and there was a collection of traditional buildings, the tables had been set up on the lawn where we were treated to a dance show and procession. Our last day was quite spectacular. First we went for an Elephant ride
through the jungle, which was exhilarating, followed by a slow ride on a bamboo raft down the river. The evening started out by watching the Ley Krathong parade, with spectacular floats and lovely young people
marching in various costumes. This was supposedly the commercial interest, the private sector would be represented the following evening. We then went to a restaurant in some god forsaken place, though very lovely, where we floated our own lit Kretongs and also sent lit lanterns up to the heavens for our wishes to be fulfilled. It was very moving and beautiful to see all the lit lanterns like orange dots against the dark sky.

Do not ask me what Chiang Mai is like, I have no idea, our visit there could have been anywhere as far as I could tell. I did get to visit a few pharmacies, situated in malls, am sure that is not unique to C.M.

Vientiane

VIENTIANE

The Boat Landing was probably a novelty when it first opened up, and am sure that it still is in many ways. It is a lovely remote place, don't know how it was when the original owners and builders ran it.
Now it is as I wrote a place to chill out, or be picked up by a car for a trek.

Our flight was over an hour delayed getting into Vientiane, couldn't really see much as it was getting dark. Took a taxi to Mali Namphu guesthouse, on the recommendation of my friend Sue. The taxis are a fixed price from the airport $6 or $8 for a van.
The GH could offer me a single room for 1 night $22 which was fine, the next night I moved to a twin bedded room off the garden for $30.

The GH is very near to the main tourist drag and as I walked to an Internet Cafe, I see these buffet tables in the middle of the sidewalk. A new Cafe opened that day and anyone who walked by was invited to partake of the food and soft drinks being offered. There were quite an array of different hors d'oeuvres, some better than others. Quite the opening feast, which meant that I didn't need to have dinner that night. Internet here is very slow, but you can prepay 2 hours for a little less than $1 or pay 100 kip a minute which comes to about 75 cents an hour.

The front desk man, Phan, who checked me in wears many hats, he offered to take me on a guided tour the next day together with 2 Japanese gentlemen for $30. Since as a rule I avoid guides, from my less than wonderful experiences last year I was very hesitant to accept the offer. Now I am so glad that I relented, in the end, there is no way that I would have covered as much ground and seen as much on my own.

Phan's English is excellent and he is a very good guide, when he offered to take me to different markets the following day, his day off I didn't hesitate for a second.

We started out by going to Buddah Park, built by a religious fanatic in the late 50's. He apparently studied under a Hindu rishi in Vietnam, as well as being a priest and a monk. The place is absolutely fantastic and in many ways quite beautiful. There is a huge reclining Buddah and many, many other statues. The builder of the park was forced to leave Laos, and settled in the Thai town of Nong Khai where he built another park. We then went to see the Friendship bridge that connect Thailand to Lao. Stopped at the convention center, where a trade show was being set up, bought some drinks at the super market inside the center. Then came time for the real meaty stuff, I think we covered every temple in town. Phan really wanted us to see the Lao Nationa Museum but we were all sight-seeinged out.

Phan as out guide was called took us to a Lao restaurant where we had a delcious lunch of fresh and fried springrolls, as well as rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, mint, noodles and grilled pork, all of this was washed down with Beer Lao. Lunch for the 4 of us came to $18 including many beers and a large bottle of water.

When we returned to the Guesthouse a large stage was being erected on the street with a sign “Luxe Grand Opening” there was this tiny little shop that was opening with such an extravaganza. After having rested for awhile, before joining the festivities, which I had been invited to partake in. I stood on the street and marveled at how the whole thing had been put together. The guests arrived carrying very elaborate flower baskets, hostess dutifully was photographed with each guest. The women for the most part were very dressed up. The show started with two women singing and dancing to a record, then a mistress of ceremonies and someone else came onstage and never stopped talking. The ribbon cutting ceremony took place while they were still gabbing on. Then came the highlight THE FASHION SHOW. Most of the things seemed to be made for Lolitas, thigh high stockings with shorts and ridiculously high heels, or long flowing night gowns with huge floppy strawhats. I am sure that it is very fashionable in Tokyo or Vientiane.


After a a couple of tea sandwiches decided it was time for dinner, this time I thought I wanted something Western to eat, and walked into a very busy outdoor restaurant, unfortunately didn't take the name down, it is past the Scandinavian Bakery close to Green Discovery. There didn't seem to be any tables available so I sat at the bar. Within two minutes a young German girl asked if I wanted to join her. Had one of the best Chicken Laab ever, nothing else appealed to me. Dagmar and I ended up having a delightful evening and she happily joined me in the following days schedule.

I had spent most of Saturday trying to get through to Lao airlines to change my ticket to return to Bangkok Sunday afternoon, was never able to get through. Sunday morning Phan drove me to the airport, where I was reassured that they “always” had no shows. After having spent most of the day visiting various markets including the Morning Market, which is a shopping mall, as well as the National Museum, and killing a few hours sitting by the Mekong drinking beer went out to the airport, and of course everybody had shown up for the flight.

Checked into the Lao Paris hotel which is quite lovely with a nice room for $25 and being picked up at 6 am for a confirmed flight.

Luang Namtha and Muang Sin

It is so interesting how things happen in an instant. I was supposed to meet up with this couple to go for dinner at the Boat Landing. They were nowhere to be found, decided to go by myself and was unable to get a Tuk Tuk. It is too far out of town. Finally returned to Zuela , and asked for a good Lao restaurant. They sent me to Panda, where I ended up having a fantastic evening.

It was completely deserted when I arrived, looked at the menu and could not see anything that was not Western, finally I asked, and the owner/chef pointed to 3 dishes with coconut. I ordered the coconut fish and was already regretting my decision to stay, so sure that whatever I would get would be a watered down version, since the entire menu was totally non-Lao. Instead I was served one of the most delicious versions ever. While I am eating my fish, a group of five arrive and sit at the table behind me. After a while I hear guitar playing, I half turn and the two older men are playing guitars and I presume singing folk songs. The older of the two speaks very good English and points out this young, quite made up woman as his wife. The young man across the table is his son from his old wife, whom he divorced to marry this young girl, they now have 3 children.

Trophy wives are obviously not alien in this part of the world either. She is younger than the son, who is there with his fiancee. After awhile and many Lao Beers later a Country Western CD is produced and everybody gets up to dance, what started out one way ended totally unexpected. It was a fun evening, and everyone who knows me know how I love to dance.

Check out of Zuela and catch the mini bus to Muang Sing the journey is mountainous through dense forests. Unfortunately large tracts have been denuded by loggers, though there are signs of reforestation taking place. I arrive in Muang Sin after 1 ½ hours, and am very disappointed by what I see. In my guide book it is described as a supremely picturesque village, I suppose guide book writers can take poetic license. There is nothing particularly attractive about this village. The guest house I check into is lovely and the room as luxurious and as attractive as the Apsara $12 a night. Now I enquire about treks, I know that there are some one day easy walking and also a one day with Tuk Tuk. However since I am alone the price is double, I decide that I'm here so might as well go for it. I don't have enough cash and there is NO ATM, what to do? When in doubt go and eat, which is exactly what I do at Taileu Guesthous which is the only place in town, and one of the few in the country that serve indigenous northern cuisine. This according to my not very reliable guide book. Finally I got to taste fresh spring rolls that were delicious. After lunch I walk around trying to see if I have some options here, since I am not in love with the place, and don't have enough cash for a trek, decide to go back to Luang Nam Tha in the morning. Will check out the Boat Landing and stay there if they have rooms.

Apart from Luang Prabang and Luang Nam Tha I have probably stayed in the most upscale places available. My mode of travel, apart from hiring private transportation, is what has been available. Perhaps not what I would have selected if given a choice beforehand, but I am very glad to have experienced it. So how do I like it so far? It is a beautiful country, but I don't think it is a place to travel on your own unless you are a trekker and /or a backpacker. As much as I love nature I much prefer places where I can see things and interact with people. To me Laos is much more about discovering nature, and less about the places. The people are very nice, and pleasant if a little reserved. Except of course in the markets, where I find the women very outgoing and anxious to share, this is very much the case in most markets though. Maybe it takes a certain personality to be a market vendor, and it meshes with my own?

After another sleepless night I leave for the bus stop, get a lift with a local bus and arrive at 7 am for a 8 am bus. There are already bags claiming most of the seats, I put my bag on one of the unclaimed ones and head for the market and breakfast. The market is hopping and true to my information there are several women from the mountain tribes both selling and purchasing, the head gears are amazing on some of them, and the embroideries most intricate.This is the closes I will get and it is OK, had fantasies of exploring the villages but had selective inattention in my prior resarch. Breakfast is Pho and back to the bus and Luang Nam Tha.

First order of business, LaoAirlines, there is a flight the next day which I book, since my tickets are Discover Pass I can change flights without penalties. I check into the Boat Landing which is very lovely with beautifully landscaped gardens full of butterflies. The rooms are indivual cottages with porches overlooking the Nam Tha river. Since this is an ecological place the water is solar heated, which means cold showers. My room rate is $35 including a scrumptious breakfast The people are very nice, the young man who shows me my room asks “Do you have my husband?” I can honestly say “No”.

It is very far from town just by the airport, a lovely place to chill out if you need that, or as a base for treks. The food is good, the Chicken Laab excellent, Morning Glory Salad has a sweet mustard mayonnaise dressing,not great, Stir Fried Pork is good, not outstanding. Am fortunate in that I share my meal with two young men from California and end up having a very nice evening. Have a great nights rest and wake up to a pleasantly cool morning.

Am looking forward to my reactions to Vientiane. Arrived tonight and what little I have seen I like.

Going up the Nam Ou

October 19
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.

On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.

As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.

On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.

After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.

By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.

One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.

At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.

We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.

Luang Prabang

Having spent a very wet night in Bangkok, wet in the sense that the skies opened up, I never expected the Bangkok Air flight to depart on time for Luang Prabang, L.P. from now on. Well it did, 1 hour 40 minutes later, including lunch and 2 glasses of wine we landed.

Coming in the country is so green and verdant, am itching to explore further. After having obtained my visa, Sweden is $4 cheaper than the USA,.my driver met me. Having decided to splurge I am staying at the Apsara a boutique hotel $70 US/night. The hotel is lovely, location perfect, room is gorgeous with a king size bed, huge bathroom and very thick and soft towels. I feel it may have been a mistake, the other guests are couples, politely say good morning at breakfast, but there is no interaction at all. However I may live to eat those words as my trip through Laos progresses with slow boats and guest houses.

L.P. is a complete shock, I have read numerous descriptions, and nothing prepares me for this small town feeling and look…..am not quite sure if there is anything else like this anywhere else. There are tourists, but not an overwhelming amount, the buildings are low, none above 3 stories, painted mainly white. Most of the signs for restaurants and guest houses are on wooden highly varnished plaques.

The police station is a tiny building in the middle of Sinavangvon Road a.k.a. Main Street. This I walk up and down a few times trying to locate an ATM, the maximum you can withdraw is 70.000 kip (approx $80US) with a service charge of 20.000kip $2.40. Since I left all those crisp dollar bills in Bangkok, to use in Myanmar will have to deal with this in some fashion. Walk the down to the night market, there is not much of interest, I buy a couple of shirts, which I had planned to, and go for dinner.

Dinner was at Tamnak Lao, ordered a pork Laab, sticky rice and a Lao Lao which I thought was the local beer. It is not, it is the local moonshine, it reminds me of cheap tequila. Dinner was fair, I felt that there was too much fish sauce in the Laab, but that may be the way the dish should be. Start a conversation with Mike from England via Hawaii, for the last 40 years, he took early retirement, before the company went belly up and is fulfilling his dream of traveling SEA while the wife stays at home teaching. He was a really interesting character, and I enjoyed our conversation. By now it is 10 pm and bedtime, early rising to partake in the alms procession tomorrow.

Wake up 5 am and get up, don’t want to miss a thing here. Am out on the still fairly dark street by 5.30 and it is an amazing sight. There are mats on the sidewalk with baskets full of sticky rice, on top of each basket is a sash. All of a sudden van loads of people arrive they know exactly where to go. I happen to be standing near a spot where Thai tourists have staked their claim, they invite me to join them and before I know it I have a sash too, expertly put on by someone, who equally expertly reclaims it at the end. I have bought some banana leaves filled with sticky rice. Around 6,20 or so hundreds of monks pass by, the first four get my rice, my neighbor kindly offers to share her basket and we take little pinches of sticky rice to put into their alms bowls. The Thais also put in money and flowers, as do others. There are people were eating it.little children walking on the side with baskets, where the flowers are put. Others have large plastic bags or baskets where the excess rice goes. The amount of rice given is staggering, there are obviously organized tours that partake in this ritual. The tour guides have 4-5 cameras hanging around their necks while the participants of the group give merit, and they take pictures of the process.

I am very puzzled by the amount of rice not kept by the monks, and ask when I get back for breakfast at the hotel. The answer which makes perfect sense is that the rice collected goes to feed many hungry families, only wish I could believe it. One woman whom I asked, said it went to feed animals. All I know is that there was so much sticky rice collected and this is a daily ritual. I was also told that by the fact I had a sash put on I had given merit. Did I feel it was a solemn procession, yes the monks were solemn, but the circus before with all the women vendors and the tour guides taking pictures it seemed more of a commercial enterprise than anything else. The thought that crossed my mind, while this was going on was that the rice had passed through my hands, the monks hands and possibly other hands as well and yet people were eating it in the end, I was glad that there were no plastic gloves in sight.

Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.

When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.

Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.

As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.

It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.

Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.

Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great. Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.

When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.

Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.

As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.

It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.

Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 year old grandmoither who lives in Las Vegas has returned for a few months and these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who would have thought that Chanterelles were available here.

Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.

The first afternoon after I had arrived in L.P. I checked out a few cooking schools. None which sounded too appealing. I had run into Joy at the market as he was taking students around, had also read about the Tamarind classes. It really was a no brainer, we met at the Tamarind restaurant all in all there were 9 of us. First we went to the Phoisy market where Joy, that was his name, explained different ingredients as well as showing us deifferent meats including dried rodent.

After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.

On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.

As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.

Singapore


The center of Singapore is very pleasant to walk around, lots of street sculptures and open spaces, if only it wasn’t so hot. The average temperature that I have experienced so far is 90-95F except after yesterday’s thunderstorm. Singapore has always been a place I wanted to visit, it reads so excitingly and exotic, I am not disappointed. Except have not been able to do more than a very few things of what I wanted because of the heat.

After lunch I return to the hotel for a rest and manage to sleep for a few hours.My plan is to go and do the Night Safari at the Zoo, which has been highly advertised as the thing to do. I take the MRT, which is the name of the subway, from Dhoby Ghaut to Ang Mo Kio where I am supposed to walk underground to the bus depot, to catch the #138 bus to the Zoo . Since I don’t know this, wander around for a bit in the neighborhood, until somebody explains where I need to go. The whole trip takes about an hour.

Next to me on the bus, is a little slip of a girl, who turns out to be here on business from Hong Kong and across from us a young couple from Malaysia. The combined entrance to the 2 Zoos and the tram ride is about $35US. I may have been too tired, but I was very under impressed by the whole experience. Admittedly I did not do any of the walks, just the animal show and the ride around the Zoo.
The young girl from Hong Kong and I make a date for the following day to meet for lunch at Palm Beach, One Fullerton to have Chili Crab. There was an express bus leaving the Zoo back to the hotel for an extra $3 which I took.

Next morning I repeat the journey to go to the Zoo, I want to see and hear the Gibbon apes. The Gibbons have a very distinctive sound almost like singing when they communicate. Since I have no intention of doing the Gibbon Experience in Laos the Zoo will do.The sky is very dark when I leave the hotel, and I pack my raincoat, which was very fortunate, the sky opens up as I arrive at the Zoo. There is thunder and lighting and a true tropical storm. The Zoo is very nice but it is raining. I don’t spend much time there, I get to see one white handed Gibbon and listen to a Howler Monkey that is so loud as it swings around the tree top. I also recognize that I am very spoilt by the Bronx Zoo and having done a Safari in South Africa where we went on a night drive and saw a lot of activity. It still is a very nice Zoo and worth a visit. Time to return to the center, make a stop on the way to see an orchid garden, not impressed.

It has stopped raining by the time I reach City Hall, walk down along the water past the Esplanade Theater that looks like a Durian. Finally I reach Fullerton Hotel where I am to meet my friend Nicole from the previous night, we walk underground to the water front and Palm Beach. It seems that as much of Singapore that is above ground as much is below. Nicole tells me that it is the same in Hong Kong, it helps people escape the heat. We arrive at The Palm which is very lovely, one wall is covered in greenery, it is obviously a place for large groups all but 3 tables can accommodate 6-10 people.

Nicole to my great pleasure is very much into food. We order a part from the Chili Crab, baby squid that are fried and resemble in flavor caramelized almonds, we also have spicy Morning Glory as well as 2 complimentary dishes of a cucumber, pineapple and peanut salad and deep fried tiny silver fish filets. The crab weighs 1 kilo and is from Sri Lanka, it sits in a pool of thickened tomato chili sauce, and is utterly delicious. The meat is sweet, the sauce is not too spicy and I am hooked. The cost of the lunch for 2 was $50US.Unfortunately I never did get to try it again in Singapore.

After lunch we part ways and I walk over to China Town, was going to buy some Jerky but it doesn’t appeal instead get a cold Jasmine Ice Tea and dive into the mall to avoid the heat. It is pre Davahali and two young women are performing on a stage, they are working hard at coordinating with each other and finally they get it. The dancing is lovely but I need to get back to get ready for my evenings activities.

A Swedish friend of mine lives in Singapore with her family and has kindly invited me for dinner. They live in a large condominium complex of great looking buildings. Their apartment has 3 bedrooms, each with its own terrace, as well as one in the living room. This is where we are sitting partaking of Champagne Cocktails and the fantastic view over Singapore as well as a spectacular sunset. We have a very nice dinner with her sister, brother-in-law and niece who are visiting from Sweden as well as her really charming children and husband. The wine and conversation flows freely it is a most comfortable evening. So ends my second day in Singapore.

Singapore Day 3

Set the alarm for 8 am to make sure that I get up. It is a sunny, sunny day which means it is going to be hot. Breakfast at the hotel is most pedestrian, so decide to eat in little India. I arrive at the Little India Station and am totally transported into another world,far from the high rise, shopping mall techno city center, which is one stop away.

Preparations are already underway for Davahali which is next Saturday, necklaces of Marygolds real and artificial are for sale as well as loose flowers and flower petals. The scents coming from all the restaurants are mouthwatering, but I am on a mission. Tekka the refurbished hawker center is calling and I head straight there. I enter what is called a wet market, where fresh fruits, meats, vegetables and fish are sold. The vendors are very pleasant and patiently answer my questions. The meat looks very good but I don’t really get a sense of prices. The only ones listed are the lamb prices and they sound most reasonable.

By now I am so hungry and enter the food court on the ground floor. It all sounds so appetizing, Biriyani, Mutton Curry, and other dishes, what to choose? One stall has a long line, it is the only one with a line so I join it. They are making and serving something called Prata and Murtabak. There is Prata and tissue Prata. In the rear of the stall is a man making the dough, some is made thinner and others left to the its own devices. I finally place my order by pointing to something someone else had ordered. It was egg, onions and ground cooked lamb put inside an incredibly thinly pulled piece of dough, which the cook accomplishes in a nano second and then cooked on a griddle. The finished item is then served with a mild curry sauce. It is very good but more than I can eat. To drink I order Chendol which is some kind of a coconut milk drink with a palm sugar syrup and green starch noodle like a tendril. Have to investigate what it was. The entire meal comes to $4.50 US.

I continue walking along the main street towards the Hindu temple that was built in the 1800’s Just as I have removed my sandals to enter. the door is shut in my face. Continue on to Mustafa Market which is a multistoried building housing thousands of merchants. It is all very civilized, nobody is harassling you to buy anything, all the merchandise is separated into sections. It is cool inside but I am not here to shop I just wander a little trying to cool down. Finally I feel that I can face the outside again, go to find a taxi to take me back to the hotel. The driver tells me that it is 40 degrees Centigrade, 104 F outside. I believe him, this heat is brutal.

After a couple of hours rest it is time for the Botanical Gardens and the Orchid Garden, which is how I didn’t get to try Chili Crab again. The Botanical garden was founded in 1849 by an Englishman, it is obviously a place for people, there are picnics on the lawns, a dance rehearsal takes place in a secluded area. It is a very appealing park intelligently laid out with some fascinating exhibits. The orchid garden ,in particular is spectacular, there are so many varieties, heirloom, hybrids, wild ones, orchids named after political rulers, rock stars and more. I keep on wandering around taking photos as I had promised my son, the orchid grower, to take pictures.


It is getting late and I have more promises to fulfill. Singapore Sling at Raffles, the hotel is beautiful and I sit at the bar in a garden. Order my drink and cannot believe that this is what all the ado is about. I ask the bartender what the alcohol base is and he tells me Gin so I ask for some of that to be added to this sweet concoction. He happily obliges and it is a fraction more tolerable. The cost of this promise was $22 US, tax and tips included. This is not going to become a house drink, not even as a memento.

One thing I knew I had to try before I left was Hainanese Chicken and Rice. Take the train to a station nearby, and promptly get lost, grab a cab and I am at one of the most famous Hawker Centers Maxwell’s Market. The book says it’s open24hours, but in reality only a handful stay open all the time. The famous stall was closed but another was open, It is a very delicious dish of what appeared to be gently poached sliced chicken breast, with a sauce and rice. I can certainly understand the fame of it.

Time to get back and into bed as I am leaving the hotel at 8am for Bangkok, call for shuttle bus $9S to the airport. The driver is very knowledgeable about Singapore and these are a few of the nuggets I could understand. There are 26,000 taxis. Cameras are everywhere on the island in treetops and on lamp posts I think he said it cost $50 million to install. Big brother watches everything, which makes Singapore safe.
It is a most enjoyable place to visit. I wish I had,had more than 3 days. Never got to go to any of the museums, nor a chance to try some of the food. Many of the places on my list were far away and there was not enough time. Rode the bus on Orchard Road, but never got off to explore. The city a has a gzillion shopping malls, people seem to be window shopping more than buying, very few shopping bags in site. It is very green with many wonderful street sculptures, the city seems to be having a building boom including an extension on the subway. I for one will very happily return

Leaving New York arriving Singapore

Leaving New York arriving Singapore Friday Oct 12




The trip starts with a scare. On check- in with Singapore Airlines they want the last 4 digits of my credit card, or no boarding pass. You know the ad for Amex that says never leave home without it, well I did..... Don’t ever unless you have all the numbers easily retrievable. Mine are on line in a web account, in order to get them you need to be able to connect to the web.

My wireless does not work in the bar at JFK, no problem, call Amex on the cell phone, I do and they refuse to divulge any information, now I am getting nervous. My son is on one phone being very rational with Amex I am on another not quite so rationa linsisting on speaking to a supervisor, who never answers.
My son offers to drive back to the city when as a last resort I call my neighbor, who usually works evenings, and miracle of miracles she is home has my keys and all is well again.

The flight to Frankfurt is rather uneventful. Sleep a few hours and am fortunate that my seat companion has a gold membership to the Star Alliance lounge. Then onto Singapore again manage to sleep a few hours. A few words, about Singapore airlines, economy Class. The legroom is excellent, seats seem to be average width, they do recline nicely though. This is fine as long as you don’t move out of your seat, in my case window. Service was fair, not as good as Korean Airlines, it was a pleasant enough 21 hour flight, am not sure what is considered so great about this airline.

Took the shuttle bus into the city and my hotel $.6.50 US. I am staying at the Strand Hotel on Bencoolen Street. It is one block from Orchard Road, near to the MRT stations and within walking distance of the major sights. The hotel is fine, my room located in the back spacious and bright. The price is right $72US per night and it has wireless The staff is lovely and I am allowed to check in at 9 am.

Raffles and City Hall are a 5 minute walk, too early for that Singapore Sling I promised to have. Buy a 3 day transit pass $30Us with $10 refundable. First order of business lunch, I have Knopf Guide to Singapore and take the train to Raffles Place. The amount of construction is staggering, it seems as if they are completely redoing the center. It takes me awhile to get oriented and find my way to 181 Telok Ayer Street, and Ocean Curry Fish Head where I order Fish Head Soup, of course. It is delicious with curry, hot peppers and coconut milk, that and a lemonade cost about $5 US. Time to go back for a nap.

Asia 2 Itinerary 2009

Oct 7 NYC - Singapore
Oct 9 arr Singapore
Oct 10 Singapore
Oct 11 Singapore
Oct 12 Bangkok
Oct 13 Luang Prabang
Oct 14 Luang Prabang
Oct 15 Luang Prabang
Oct 16- Oct 22 travel towards Luang Namtha
Oct 23 Luang Namtha
Oct 24 Luang Namtha
Oct 25 Vientiane
Oct 26 Vientiane
Oct 27 - 30 Bangkok
Oct 31 Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Oct 31 - Nov 3 Chiang Mai
Nov 3 Yangon
Nov 4 Yangon
Nov 5 Yangon
Nov 6 - Nov 24 Myanmar
Nov 24 Bangkok
Nov 29 - Dec 6 Thailand
Dec 7 Bkk-NYC
Dec 8 NYC